Fliteline Reflex Res. Closing loop

[airnutt 8]

I have a reflex that has come in for a repack and I'm looking for dimensions to make a reserve closing loop.any help would be appreciated.

[RiggerLee 61]

Well, since it's adjustable...

Sorry, couldn't resist. As I recall the finger trap starts just past the grommet. and is short only about .75  inch. Then it runs out the other way 180 off from the loaded part of the loop. So it's tied at the washer. Washer on the inside of the pilot chute. comes up through the side grommet. Across the top of the hard cap. Turns and goes down through the center grommet. Just past the grommet is where the finger trap will be. It goes down and forms the loop. Comes back up and enters the finger trap, 0.75 inches? exits the finger trap. comes up through the grommet. Turns 90 deg. away from the side grommet. Exits from the soft cap through the little hole. Pull on that lose end to tighten. Tuck under the soft cap. Don't you have the manule? All of this must be in there. This is just memory from way to long ago. 

 

Lee

[gowlerk 1,903]

1 hour ago, airnutt said:

I have a reflex that has come in for a repack and I'm looking for dimensions to make a reserve closing loop.any help would be appreciated.

Here is the drawing with the dimensions.

[gowlerk 1,903]

38 minutes ago, RiggerLee said:

Don't you have the manule? All of this must be in there.

The dimensions are not in the manual. But there is a note in it that they must be made pretty exactly. Better instructions are in the attached HTML file.

 

Reflexclosingloop.htm

Edited October 16, 2019 by gowlerk

[mark 102]

The only critical measurements are the ones marked 2.5" and 1.5".  The 2.5" measurement is the distance from the grommet on the edge of the cap to the grommet in the center.  This distance must be long enough that the fingertrap section is entirely below the center grommet.

The 1.5" fingertrap section used for loop length adjustment can be a little longer if pack thickness allows, but cannot be any shorter without risking loosening during the pack cycle.

Instead of the usual Cypres knot, you can make a small (0.5" I.D.) loop at the end of the closing loop, and secure using the no-sew method.  The length of the fingertrap for this small loop should knot exceed about 2", so it won't interfere with the fingertrap section used for adjusting loop length.  Larks-head the small loop to the Cypres washer to get a more solid anchor than the usual double-overhand + single-overhand.

 

 

[gowlerk 1,903]

35 minutes ago, mark said:

The 1.5" fingertrap section used for loop length adjustment can be a little longer if pack thickness allows, but cannot be any shorter without risking loosening during the pack cycle.

Yes, this is where I always use the +/- .25 inch on the plus side. I've found that 1.5 inch is not quite enough to hold, but an extra 1/4 goes a long way. Even so, in the student size Reflex we were using the cap would still need to be tightened at least once a season. I'm not sure that you can do it on a smaller one though.

Edited October 16, 2019 by gowlerk

[airnutt 8]

Thanks for the drawing, I do have the manual and the supplement, the print on my drawing was so small and hard to read I had to borrow one

[pchapman 261]

While we are sharing Reflex loop info, here's more:

1.  Basically the same thing but from the Trident folks who I guess took over the TSO later. At least that shows updated manufacturer info is the same.

2. A two page instruction set unlike the single sheet one seen so far. It has some early scribblings of mine all over it, which can either be distracting or useful. When I first had to build the loops, it was all a bit confusing what each of those A,B,C,D and other marks or sections would correspond to in the final assembly....