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sheeks

Crossport fraying?

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I bought a used spectre 170 with 400 jumps and I noticed the crossports on the ribs between the cells have some fraying on them all, nothing too substantial maybe like an eigth or quarter of an inch deep in some parts on them, and they’re all fairly consistantly frayed

is it worth having something done to them or is it best to leave them be?

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Leave them alone.  Usually the fraying is just in the corners of the crossport, so it starts to appear more rectangular.  If you do nothing, the fraying will tangle, which slows down the rate of future fraying.  Do not trim the fraying with scissors or hot knife, since this just results in a place to restart the fraying.  In an extreme case that the crossport might possibly tear from top seam to bottom seam, but at most this just puts an annoying turn in the canopy.  I've seen this with a couple tandem canopies, and the instructors have jumped them for 8 or 10 jumps before realizing there really was a turn in the canopy that might need to be checked out.

Save your money and go jump.

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I recently learned from my rigger  that you can estimate the number of jumps on a canopy by the amount of fraying. New crossports are round. At about 1000 jumps they are almost square. Seemed to match pretty well with my own canopies and a few others that I checked.

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Id say that was questionable.   I have canopies i maintain that don't have round crossports to start with and canopies that have 2000 jumps with the cross-ports still looking circular and no fraying.

As far as fraying, I've typically seen this more on the non load bearing ribs that most fraying occurs.   These are the ribs that dont have line attachments on them.   I would guess the loading of the rib doesn't allow it to flutter as much which causes the fraying to occur more quickly but thats just a guess after inspecting many canopies every year and seeing the progression.

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