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ghostdog

Packing Practice

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Posted (edited)

I took the pack training and learned how to pack and jumped with it. Next week, I forgot everything and needed some help to pack and happened again.

What's the best way to practice packing? Should I unpack my chute and keep packing over and over at home without someone to tell me my mistakes? Should I just pack and jump under supervision for a while?

Any useful source (not youtube videos, those are confusing) that I learn the theories better? my issue is mostly recognizing Ds, Cs, Bs, .... from each other. 

Edited by ghostdog

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27 minutes ago, ghostdog said:

Should I unpack my chute and keep packing over and over at home without someone who tells me my mistakes? Should I just pack and jump under supervision for a while?

Or both. Many people do. The very best thing is to jump and pack as often as possible.

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4 hours ago, ghostdog said:

my issue is mostly recognizing Ds, Cs, Bs, .... from each other. 

Simply mark the tags at the attachment points with colored markers. Sure, it may not be "cool" but why worry about this part of packing when "getting it in the bag" is usually stressful enough (especially if your canopy is large and brand-new!)

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>What's the best way to practice packing?

With a Professional Rigger watching over your shoulder.

Find a local rigger and ask if you can practice packing in their loft.  You can do your thing and develop practice and muscle memory, and they can do their thing - rigging and paying the bills - and provide oversight and guidance as you go.  Pay Them For Their Time.  It will take practice and repetition, but with the right amount of guidance, you'll both come out winners in the end.

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17 hours ago, ghostdog said:

 my issue is mostly recognizing Ds, Cs, Bs, .... from each other. 

I assume you know how to recognize the A lines since it’s not mentioned here. If you follow the seams that the line is attached to, you can go from A-b, b-c, c-d. Another thing that helps if you have it on your shoulder is when you look down on the slider the a & b lines go through the two grommets closest to your body while the c, d, and steering lines go through the other two. (This is assuming you already set the brakes, checked line continuity, found the nose and have it tucked between your legs at this point)

 

as mentioned above it is best to have a rigger around to watch over you while you practice.

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(edited)

Hi, sorry if I steel your post but I don't think is useful to start another similiar.. :)

im kinda new in this sport with 70ish jumps and I'm packing by myself for last cca 50jumps..canopies with 300+ jumps .. from 240 to 170...and I dont have any problems..

few days ago  I got brand new canopy...well, you can guess my problem.. :) 

took me around 10 trials and 3h to put it inside for the first time.... i searched old post but most of them are pointing to 2step reverse s fold... and to a site:http://www.sidsrigging.com which dont work anymore... anyone got some update? I can't find instructions for this method..

thanks in advance guys!

 

Edited by Kocka

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few days ago  I got brand new canopy...well, you can guess my problem.. :) 

took me around 10 trials and 3h to put it inside for the first time.... i

First fifty or so jumps on my new canopy, I psycho packed it. Seemed to offer more control. Here's a video that may help, but always discuss with a rigger, never take advice off of the internet, go to the PIA conference before you do anything new,  yadda yadda yadda 

 

 

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On 5/28/2019 at 3:28 PM, ghostdog said:

Any useful source (not youtube videos, those are confusing) that I learn the theories better? my issue is mostly recognizing Ds, Cs, Bs, .... from each other. 

One often overlooked source is the FAA Rigger Handbook. It has a section on packing mains. Available as a free download.

The 'thing' that helped me the most for recognizing the line groups is the knots. A/B & C/D are easy because they go through the front & back slider grommets. But distinguishing the A & B (or C & D) from each other can be a bit challenging. 
Look at the knots. Each line group will have its knots at about the same level. The knots for the different groups will be at different heights.

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On 5/29/2019 at 8:54 PM, Kocka said:

Hi, sorry if I steel your post but I don't think is useful to start another similiar.. :)

im kinda new in this sport with 70ish jumps and I'm packing by myself for last cca 50jumps..canopies with 300+ jumps .. from 240 to 170...and I dont have any problems..

few days ago  I got brand new canopy...well, you can guess my problem.. :) 

took me around 10 trials and 3h to put it inside for the first time.... i searched old post but most of them are pointing to 2step reverse s fold... and to a site:http://www.sidsrigging.com which dont work anymore... anyone got some update? I can't find instructions for this method..

thanks in advance guys!

 

Luckily there's a web archive website that has that page in its cache:

http://web.archive.org/web/20151030060538/http://sidsrigging.com/articles/greed.htm

There ya go.

I'll add the following based on how I pack, which is using a reverse S fold method since I got a brand new canopy at jump 100. Every jump I've packed since then for every canopy has been with that method.

 

In that link the canopy is folded in half, then the attachment point end is folded over, and all that put in the bag with the label end still to be done. When I pack I break it down even more, making it possibly even easier.

 

I fold the canopy in half as in the second picture, then put that in the bag. I then put the attachment point end in the bag, and because that is the only bit going in the bag at that stage, I can make sure it fills the bag right to the corners. That then gets me to the same stage as picture 4 in the link. The rest I do the same. For me the fact that you are only handling 1/2 the canopy at a time, means it is much easier to get it in the bag in stages.

 

I've not had a problem packing since I got used to doing this method, and that includes packing a 120 ish sized canopy in a bag for a 100 size canopy for short term use. Very tight, but it got there without notable issues.

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On ‎5‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 1:01 PM, flyhi said:

First fifty or so jumps on my new canopy, I psycho packed it. Seemed to offer more control. Here's a video that may help, but always discuss with a rigger, never take advice off of the internet, go to the PIA conference before you do anything new,  yadda yadda yadda 

 

 

I saw this before posting but i wasn't feel comfortable to practice it.. :)… i newer saw anyone at dz doing it...

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11 hours ago, degeneration said:

Luckily there's a web archive website that has that page in its cache:

http://web.archive.org/web/20151030060538/http://sidsrigging.com/articles/greed.htm

There ya go.

I'll add the following based on how I pack, which is using a reverse S fold method since I got a brand new canopy at jump 100. Every jump I've packed since then for every canopy has been with that method.

 

In that link the canopy is folded in half, then the attachment point end is folded over, and all that put in the bag with the label end still to be done. When I pack I break it down even more, making it possibly even easier.

 

I fold the canopy in half as in the second picture, then put that in the bag. I then put the attachment point end in the bag, and because that is the only bit going in the bag at that stage, I can make sure it fills the bag right to the corners. That then gets me to the same stage as picture 4 in the link. The rest I do the same. For me the fact that you are only handling 1/2 the canopy at a time, means it is much easier to get it in the bag in stages.

 

I've not had a problem packing since I got used to doing this method, and that includes packing a 120 ish sized canopy in a bag for a 100 size canopy for short term use. Very tight, but it got there without notable issues.

Thanks! I manage to find somewhere what reverse s fold means… after some practice im able to fold it now.. wohoo :)

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8 hours ago, Kocka said:

I saw this before posting but i wasn't feel comfortable to practice it.. :)… i newer saw anyone at dz doing it...

:D When I was the first at my DZ to start psychopacking it would draw a small crowd, looking at me as if I was completely mad and irresponsible (no comment... xD). 
Shaking their head and saying things like: "I will go sit outside and watch you pull your reserve". I never had any problems or malfunction with this packing method.
I don't think there is that much difference between psychopacking and propacking: first part is the same, then just a different way to put it in the bag.

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I too use a psycho packjob as well, and wouldn’t do it any other way!  Watch all the videos carefully, and have an experienced psycho packer show you first hand.  It works wonders on a new canopy, and cleans up the overall packjob.  Everyone seems to have different variations of it, but there are a few necessary steps, one of which is making sure to get the bridle/ attachment point out, and off to one side to avoid friction burns.

If you have the space at home, just practice whatever method you decide to go with until you feel confident.  Then ask someone experienced (instructor/packer) watch you pack at the DZ before you huck it.  Regardless of the method, it’s an pain in the ass when you’re new.... it just comes down to repetition.

But again, I’m a stranger on the interwebs... talk to your instructors!

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Just today I managed to get a crispy new 150 9-cell canopy into a new 135 container using that method (150 tight fit). So I additionally reasured myself that this is a good way to do it. Material is so much easier to control.

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On 6/4/2019 at 11:32 AM, Maddingo said:

Just today I managed to get a crispy new 150 9-cell canopy into a new 135 container using that method (150 tight fit). So I additionally reasured myself that this is a good way to do it. Material is so much easier to control.

You're talking about Roll packing technique right?

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On 6/4/2019 at 9:16 AM, Highradwarrior said:

I too use a psycho packjob as well, and wouldn’t do it any other way!

I also use this method, and I have for the last 400 or so packjobs. It helps to have a rig like a Vector that has a totally enclosed bridle, so there is no concern about getting any fabric trapped between the bridle and the kill line when bagging the canopy.

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I started practicing, it's all good at home because I have more time, less stress and I'm not tired.

But after a jump at DZ, it's more difficult to pack due to lack of energy and time and ...

Not an issue, I think it'll be okay after a while.

My current issue is about my packing technique. I have line twists almost in every single opening. Never have a twist when a rigger packs it, so parachute is good, it's me. Is it dangerous? Should I stop packing until I fix the problem or I can pack and jump until I found what's wrong with my packing?

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34 minutes ago, ghostdog said:

...My current issue is about my packing technique. I have line twists almost in every single opening. Never have a twist when a rigger packs it, so parachute is good, it's me. Is it dangerous? Should I stop packing until I fix the problem or I can pack and jump until I found what's wrong with my packing?

What canopy are you jumping? Size and type. 
How big of groups are you jumping?
How good are you at tracking?

 

Since you are fairly new, I'm guessing you are jumping a reasonably big, docile canopy. If you are jumping a sub-100 cross-brace, there are other issues that are more important than your packing.

For something that won't point you at the ground and spin you into unconsciousness, the problem with line twists is that you can't maneuver until you are out of them. So if you are jumping in bigger groups, where traffic issues may be present immediately after opening, or if you can't track well enough to get good separation, then line twists can be a very real problem.

 

There's a whole laundry list of issues that may cause line twists. Most of them involve symmetry. 
Make sure your risers are even when you start. Some folks tie the big rings together with a pull up cord to make sure. 
Make sure your line stows are even. If they are uneven, the bag can twist as it goes to line stretch. Maybe stow the lines like you usually do and then pull them out. Pull with the bridle. See if the bag does anything odd. 
Make sure the nose is as symmetrical as you can. If one side inflates faster, that can induce twists. 
Same goes for wrapping and cocooning it. 

You might want to find a packer who is willing to watch you pack. See if they can spot any issues. The best time to do this would be the end of the day, and make sure you have some beer to offer ("hey, can you watch me pack to see if I'm doing anything obviously wrong? I have a couple beers you can drink while you watch")

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