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Monosa

Packing a new canopy ... flaking problem

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Hi,

I got a new canopy (Pilot 168 ZPX). I have no problem with getting it into the bag but with the flakes between the c and d lines. If I move the center cell carefully up to close the cocoon then the c and d lines are moving and the fabric between the c and lines moves to the inside ... so my nice flakes are getting destroyed.

I had the idea to use my left hand to hold the line attachment points in place while pulling the center cell up with my right hand but if I pull the center cell around on the left and right side to close the cocoon the lines are moved again to the outside on both sides and the flakes are getting destroyed.

I never had this kind of problem while packing the student/rental gear and I always thought the hardest part of packing a new canopy is the bagging process. :(

Any ideas on my problem?

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What effect does it have on opening? For BASE jumping pack jobs, a lot of us use the line attachment point groups, and place them in this order.
abcds sdcba.
Try that if it is irritating you. If you are having good openings, then it is only an irritant.
Also, see if the pack job you pack comes out of the bag the way you want it.
I hope this helps. Maybe i have a diagram of a flake job.
Take care,
space

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Monosa

Hi,

I got a new canopy (Pilot 168 ZPX). I have no problem with getting it into the bag but with the flakes between the c and d lines. If I move the center cell carefully up to close the cocoon then the c and d lines are moving and the fabric between the c and lines moves to the inside ... so my nice flakes are getting destroyed.



It's not that critical honestly. When you splat the packjob down on the ground it's going to shift anyway. Moreover, when it comes out of the bag in the air, it's 'really' going to shift. Ever seen what a canopy looks like just after it's out of the D bag but before it inflates? Here is a still I took from a video I shot yesterday. I looked perfectly fine going into the bag. Not so much when it comes out at 125 MPH.

https://ibb.co/hK8w1T

The things you really want to focus on are:

1. Cock pilot chute well.
2. use adequate stow tension and line bight length, especially on the locking stows (12 lbs+ is what most say).
3. Route the bridle through container correctly and make sure the closing loop is not wrapped around any lines or the bridle.
4. Clear the slider stops from lines before bagging the canopy.
5. make sure all four slider grommets are against the slider stops both while packing and before closing the bag, and make sure the slider is quartered.
6. conduct a line walkdown check and ensure the toggles are set correctly.

There are other things, but that's the most of it. The rest is mostly opening quality. Try to keep the lines to the center and the fabric to the outside, but honestly it's going to move around once it hits the air anyway as the photo demonstrates.

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Here is a diagram of a flake job. Viewing the bottomskin as it is hanging from your hand. It is for a 7 cell but it is the same principle as a 9 cell. After doing the best job in the stand up flaking. I lay it down, walk around and check that the packing tabs are grouped per line group, raise the tail and group the line groups together while pulling out the material.
As the other poster stated, the pack job gets distorted as it hits the airstream. So you want, as much as possible to reduce the variability by doing the putting the same pack job in the bag. Make sense?
I know this is similar to a BASE packjob flake, but it has very little influence on opening speed. It is the same as a reserve flaking. Which is flaking to the max and not getting lost on the C-D-Steering line groups and material.
I hope this helps.
Take care,
space

canopy flake.jpg

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You are starting well.

I do a variation on your technique but I concentrate on keeping D and steering lines centre rear.
Once the canopy is flaked, I bundle all the steering lines, D lines and a few C lines centre rear.
I pull the tail to teeth level and briefly hold the centre tail between my teeth.
Then I reach around the outside - with my other hand - and clamp that bundle from the outside.
My first hand rolls the canopy.
Both hands maintain grips until the canopy is laying on the floor and I lay on top of it to squeeze air out.
This extra step keeps the bundle of steering lines, D lines and C lines centre rear.

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You have some good points and yes no matter how clean your pack job is as soon as it hits the wind at a buck n quarter it becomes a mess, sort of. But what the OP is concerned about is a legit concern. The D lines if not kept in the center as best as possible can POPTENTIALY get around one of the round stiffeners stitched on the stabilizer during the opening and remain hung up once it is under tension(it has happened). It is a trick to do what you are having trouble with, but just be a little creative and you should be able to find a way. I would have to watch you to be able to suggest another method. I have been a full time packer before(4 years) and also teach the packing course to aff students since 2006, and yes BASE also. When I get done rolling the tail and go to set it on the ground, I dont slam, or plop, or throw it down, because yes it can muck up your awesome flake job.

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As long as your lines are not going past the edge of the bundle (sausage) and around, you should be OK. When it's the time to put the flaked canopy on the floor, to keep my D lines in the pack center, I also grab them thru the fabric from the bottom until after I have layed the canopy on the floor. While I am laying on the folded canopy, I feel the lines thru the fabric and if they are spread, I bring them back in the center thru the fabric.
Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

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