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waltappel

AK-47 Receivers

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You know this is going to be moved to SC - but I will get you a real answer on your question soon, m'kay. :)



You are a goddess!:)
Another thing I've wondered is whether I have to get a receiver without any finish, e.g., Parkerized or blued or whatever, if I want to get some engraving or metal etching done. And what should I do *after* the engraving/etching to protect the surface from corrosion?

Walt

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If it's an Ohio Rapid Fire Inc (ORF), then they're good quality (or as good as you can expect from an AK-47) And as far as getting one "in the white" go to the website and call them. Also you will need to get it though a dealer in TX, so just ask when you call who they could ship it to/through, they might have a dealer/distrib. list

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Another thing I've wondered is whether I have to get a receiver without any finish, e.g., Parkerized or blued or whatever, if I want to get some engraving or metal etching done. And what should I do *after* the engraving/etching to protect the surface from corrosion?



Milled are definitely better than stamped. May be a little pricey for just the receiver, but not too much.

As far as the finish, it depends on what type of use the gun will see. Parkerized or blue are both good.

"From my cold dead hands"



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Parkerize, because bluing is not worth shit.:|



For real!!! My concern with Parkerizing, though, is that I choose to get some metal etching with fine detail, I don't want it damaged by the Parkerizing process.

Walt


It becomes part of the steel, it is not a coating that will hide the engraving at all.

Any engraving you have done should not be done in such a fine line, get it done in a way that will look good, and yet not be so fine as to make it hard to distinguish what it is.

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Parkerize, because bluing is not worth shit.:|



For real!!! My concern with Parkerizing, though, is that I choose to get some metal etching with fine detail, I don't want it damaged by the Parkerizing process.

Walt


It becomes part of the steel, it is not a coating that will hide the engraving at all.

Any engraving you have done should not be done in such a fine line, get it done in a way that will look good, and yet not be so fine as to make it hard to distinguish what it is.


I understand about Parkerizing not being a coating, but since it is an acid-dip process, I see it as a tradeoff between a GREAT durable treatment for corrosion prevention and the ability to have some detailed 3-d etching done.

This won't really become an issue until I decide on the etching I want.

Walt

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Parkerize, because bluing is not worth shit



Parkerizing is a better finish but then again it depends on its use. It you want to hang it on the wall and shoot it once a year, bluing is fine.

As long as the steel is not from China, it should be alright.



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BTW parkerizing is far easier to do as well.

170 farenheit, make sure the item is degreased and the metal is finished the way you want it.

Submerge until it turns black, take it out and let dry.

Wash with water, then oil with CLP.

Yuo can always redip, as the parkerizing will not adhere to anything but exposed metal.

Use a stainless steel pot or container to do this in, also do it outdoors with a breeze, stand upwind.

A coleman stove is all you need.

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BTW parkerizing is far easier to do as well.

170 farenheit, make sure the item is degreased and the metal is finished the way you want it.

Submerge until it turns black, take it out and let dry.

Wash with water, then oil with CLP.

Yuo can always redip, as the parkerizing will not adhere to anything but exposed metal.

Use a stainless steel pot or container to do this in, also do it outdoors with a breeze, stand upwind.

A coleman stove is all you need.



Wow! I didn't know you could do it yourself. How do you dispose of the chemicals?

Walt

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