Making/ Sewing Toggles

[kferrin1 0]

I am going to make some toggles but before I start I was wondering if anybody could verify materials/ thread to use. Is 5/8 type 4 square weave correct? Is size E thread or FF recommended? Also, what is the recommended eyelet specifications? Thanks for any help in advance. Side note I have access to industrial strength sewing machines at school or I wouldn't even make an attempt at making toggles.

[indyz 1]

Edit: Disregard the dimension in the rest of this post. Even though I've made dozens of pairs of toggles I totally spaced on the webbing size.

Usually 1/2" square weave, E thread, and #0 grommets. 5/8" will probably work fine if that is all you have, but if the eye on the brake line is already small you slightly increase the risk of it jamming. Check this out: http://paraloft.com/rt_velcro_toggles.html

[councilman24 36]

Toggles aren't a bad place to start. But homemede toggles can KILL. Of you don't know what dimensions are important find out. Generic velcro toggles are 1" type four. You can't get it at the local fabric store. The nose you have to sew zigzag through 6 layers of type 6. Even commercial machines have trouble. One you may not have enough foot lift. Two, my commercial machine don't like it much. One of my old HOME machines actually works better. Don't do it if all you have is a straight stitch. And placement of the gromment can be critical. Size 0 spur gromments but NOT the ones you buy at the local fabric store. See paragear for appropriate gromment and tools.

If the "industrial strength" machines at school have a little motor on the back instead of big motor hanging underneath the are industrial strength in name only. But may work for this.

I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

[kferrin1 0]

Thanks for the reply! Just curious here are we talking about the same thing with the square weave? 1/2" seems extremely small for the width. The link you recommended even says to use 1" width square weave. I also measured my toggles and they are 1" as well.

[kferrin1 0]

I will actually not be making velcro toggles. To be specific ill be attempting to make the toggles for an aerodyne nexgen that use a straight pin to hold in place. Thank you for the warning as well. Just so nobody is too concerned: step 1 see if I can make the toggle for practice sewing and fun, step 2 if it looks good and I used all the right materials (mil spec and or PIA spec, stainless steal eyelets ect.) I will get them pull tested, step 3 try them out for real. Who knows if I ever make it to step 3 the first step is more important to me.

[indyz 1]

kferrin1

Thanks for the reply! Just curious here are we talking about the same thing with the square weave? 1/2" seems extremely small for the width. The link you recommended even says to use 1" width square weave. I also measured my toggles and they are 1" as well.

I edited my post. I totally spaced on the webbing size even though I've made plenty of toggles. I should be 1".

[JerryBaumchen 1,047]

Hi kferrin,

Quote

a straight pin to hold in place

Here is something to look at.

Jerry Baumchen

[kferrin1 0]

Jerry that is interesting indeed.

[mathrick 2]

The danger of wrongly made toggles is not just structural failure (which'd be revealed by your strength testing step), but also jamming and creating unintended inputs during landing, which can be fatal. Some of these mistakes can be very subtle, yet still be dangerous.

"Skydivers are highly emotional people. They get all excited about their magical black box full of mysterious life saving forces."

[gb1 2]

What size are your slider grommets? If they are the newer stainless metric type, measure the inside diameter. Try to slide them over the wad that you have just created. It is an industry wide problem with thick toggles that have caused many toggle fires that have been unreported for about 15 years. Measure the width of the area of the toggle where the line goes around handle after it comes out of that big hard grommet. More than the ID of the grommet? Toggle fires can cause twisted lines, leading to a cutaway. Jamming causes time and a distraction at an important time where you need to be aware. For some reason, my problems were always on the left. Putting a single layer of type 1 on top of toggle and eliminate grommet to give less width and bulk to go through the grommet. Good Luck Wish I was smart enough to come up with the future idea to eliminate the slider. Come on guys, whoever comes up with that would be king. ha ha

[hackish 8]

kferrin1

I am going to make some toggles but before I start I was wondering if anybody could verify materials/ thread to use. Is 5/8 type 4 square weave correct? Is size E thread or FF recommended? Also, what is the recommended eyelet specifications? Thanks for any help in advance. Side note I have access to industrial strength sewing machines at school or I wouldn't even make an attempt at making toggles.

A number of sizes have been mentioned but I'd say the most common is 1" type 4. Different variations involve adding a straight pin (often attached with narrower or thinner type 3) as well as folding in and sewing different parts of the toggle itself.

In general, it's a size 0 grommet (not a 0L) and the toggle is sewn with e thread. Using F makes the toggle nose more abrasive and in time ruins the cat's eye on the brake line. The industry standard is 3 passes of tape for the nose, each folded in on itself for a total of 6 layers of material but different variations do exist. The reason for the standard size is that brake lines are designed and sized to accept this.

A smart idea is to get an old set and disassemble them to make an exact copy. Dave's (paraloft) directions are good ones to look at since they already give a cut sheet but I suppose it would be nicer if there were photos.

Finally, an industrial machine is a good start, but not every industrial machine is comfortable doing them. My 20U struggled until I modified it with higher lift and a longer needle system. Unless you have a lot of experience you may be fighting the machine to make it work well and that's no fun if you're also trying to learn.

-Michael