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RiggerLee

Sewing machine upgrade

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So I was sent a question. we've been kicking this around for a while. He has some old singer 112-w-140 and 212-w-140 double needles but they are getting tired. He's looking to upgrade to some thing more modern, lower maintenance. Maybe an oiler. Doesn't need any thing fancy. Needle feed, mostly for binding.

I'm not really up on newer models. I'm cheep. Any thoughts on newer designs that wear well, are strong, and don't break the bank?

Question follows...



Hey Lee, do me favor if get a chance sometime . on a Rigger forum or know anyone using Juki's in there shop . ? . I been doing a lot of looking last couple months .
Ask if they are anyone they know using a newer model of. ( Juki . LH-3528A ) . it is there ( double needle) model 'without' needle lift split-bar . It looks to be a ( Needle-Feed ) also . with a presser foot that can be trimmed down to get closer to the binder .
but until I actually get my eye on a one to checkout I can't be 100% sure . Just trying to digup and get as close as I can to the correct info, before I pop out a couple-k and order one up for delivery .

Juki's are Strong and this model looks to be the correct route to start moving into the modern world, as I am getting pretty old & tired of wrenching on old machines.

....thanks
ray




Lee
Lee
[email protected]
www.velocitysportswear.com

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Hi Lee,

Quote

I'm cheep.



So am I; out of necessity.

I was in the same boat a number of years ago. My old Singers were working OK; but you could tell that they were getting old.

I now have a Consew 339 double needle ( not a split needle ) and it is a GREAT machine. It is different in that it is a walking foot. I have a binding attachment built by Tennessee Attachments and ( other than having a split needle - Hint: Anyone have one for sale ) it is the best double needle that I have ever sat down with. And, I know that we all have our favorites.

Jerry Baumchen

PS) For a single needle walking foot go with Consew 206.

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Hi Jerry,

JerryBaumchen

I now have a Consew 339 double needle ( not a split needle ) and it is a GREAT machine. It is different in that it is a walking foot. I have a binding attachment built by Tennessee Attachments and ( other than having a split needle - Hint: Anyone have one for sale ) it is the best double needle that I have ever sat down with. And, I know that we all have our favorites.



Ryan in Vancouver WA has a Consew 327R-1 for sale. It has a split needle bar. Needle feed (no walking foot), less foot lift than the 339, and smaller bobbins. It's designed for top stitching. Not sure how it would compare to the 339 as a binding machine.

Brian
"It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

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I have a 112W140 and the main thing that annoys me is that it doesn't lift the foot very high for binding corners. I got screwed buying the machine and ended up spending several hundred on parts to fix it up properly.

I'm curious to know what someone would expect from a more modern design?

-Michael

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Hey Lee
I did pickup one of the ( Juki . LH-3528A ) , to set-up for seam-bind . I dropped the new 3/16 gauge set and trimmed down the presser foot with attachment and got it rolling and moved into it's station .
I did throw-in new Hook and bobbin assembly into my 212w and 112w this Fall and couple other parts got both them tuned & running strong . But I am pretty sick of wrenching on old Singers double needles . Time to move the Singers into the roll of backup machines in-case of breakdowns, so I can just keep rolling and not get behind on orders . I am also going to pickup one more new strait stitch Juki or Consew machine in the new year also, and sell a couple of my used machines .

OK.. the ( Juki . LH-3528A ) is pretty smooth and solid (Needle Feed) machine and soon as you sit behind it and start looking over . You quickly see pretty quick it's parent machine for design is the Singer's 212 design . and It looks to shares a lot of the Singer parts also like Needle gauge sets, needle plates, feed dogs, bobbins, side cover plates etc.
Juki's modern design spin on the 212 is pretty good also . With the LH-3528A, you have to move into a auto-oil set-up, but you don't have to fill and use the wet Pan if you don't want . You can just circulate and move/cycle the oil with just the machines Head internal reservoir .
So far no regrets on this Juki model set-up permanently for seam-bind . I did not put a clutch electric motor on this one either. I ordered with a electronic drive motor with rpm selection, so it's pretty smooth and quiet .

.

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I considered getting the factory model with split needle lift . But this thing is most likely just going to sit and work as seam-bind set-up only, till it dies .

Also for non-factory . There is a aftermarket split-needle set-up that you can just throw on about any double needle machine. A repair guy I know showed it to me couple months back and it is a pretty slick and simple design .
he had a few of them in his car . Comes with push bar/rod and you manually just flip either needle of your choice up .
.

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Hi Ray,

Quote

There is a aftermarket split-needle set-up that you can just throw on about any double needle machine. A repair guy I know showed it to me couple months back and it is a pretty slick and simple design .
he had a few of them in his car . Comes with push bar/rod and you manually just flip either needle of your choice up .



Can you provide pictures of this ?

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I bought one of those add on needle clamps that can raise either needle but don't see any way it could ever go on a Singer 212. (see photo attached) On of the cast parts of the needle swing mechanism, that the needle bar goes into, would have to be machined shorter (higher from the bed) to make room for it. I'm I missing something on how to install one of these things?
I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

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councilman24

I bought one of those add on needle clamps that can raise either needle but don't see any way it could ever go on a Singer 212. (see photo attached) On of the cast parts of the needle swing mechanism, that the needle bar goes into, would have to be machined shorter (higher from the bed) to make room for it. I'm I missing something on how to install one of these things?


-
Now that looks like the same thing I was shown by my repair tech. friend .
But what he showed me, they were 'complete' with the needle-bars all in one unit . 'also' I never asked the exact double needle machine models that they were available for either .

I will have to get a hold of him and get the factory name and the better details of what offered models for the complete needle-bar attached conversion .

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I was looking at this and there was a section at the bottom of the instructions I found which said that you needed to remove 9/16 of the needle bar rock frame or bushing.

That seemed a simple statement but I've been unable to find anyone that can confirm the installation on a 112w140 and am very weary about modifying at 100 part and then finding it doesn't work.

There seems to be a lot of people selling them on ebay and on sewing machine sites but no-one really has any positive confirmation on the installation instructions.

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I knew I'd seen some instructions somewhere. Can you post link

I had thought they said needle bar but it is the needle bar rock frame that is too long too allow the clamp.to fit. I think its cast. I doubt i'd try to shorten it unless I had another one on hand. :S I'll have to look again.

I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

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