0
hackish

Nylon tape for collapsible slider channels?

Recommended Posts

gowlerk

I find tape too bulky. I cut a strip if ZP nylon 2.5 inches and after folding it's 2" wide. (I just copy PD)



I haven't done up any in a while but feel that the ZP is a waste of time and energy. It wears out a lot faster & is a bitch to work with. The tape holds up a LOT longer and of course is SOOO much easier sew. Just my 2 cents.
my pics & stuff!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The next question is where to get some? I've found 2" wide type 3 tape but the weave is different. This stuff is a 2" version of the stuff used for the edges of a slider. I'm still waiting for a response from bally but have not been having much luck with anyone else.

-Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The photo above is an icarus slider and they use 2" wide tape for the collapsable part. One suggestion was to hot-knife 0.75" off the tape and fold that edge under for a finished width of 2". In a pinch, yes but prefer to have it look factory original.

-Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Michael,

Quote

One suggestion was to hot-knife 0.75" off the tape and fold that edge under for a finished width of 2".



I've made a few draw-string sliders. I would not recommend doing that. It will make the edges even stronger/stiffer; and that is not what you want in this location.

I'm with Rob Warner, the 3" tape will work. It also will collapse readily. Try it and see for yourself.

My old $0.02,

Jerry Baumchen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes Jerry,

Another trick is fold the aft end over multiple times, until it is as thick as the (fabric, tape and binding tape) edge on the original. Sew across the folded edge multiple times until it is as stiff as the original. The most critical dimension is the width of the hole the cord exits.
This "fold the bejesus out of it" method vastly reduces parts count and inventory and the number of sewing machines required.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
riggerrob



Another trick is fold the aft end over multiple times, until it is as thick as the (fabric, tape and binding tape) edge on the original. Sew across the folded edge multiple times until it is as stiff as the original. The most critical dimension is the width of the hole the cord exits.
This "fold the bejesus out of it" method vastly reduces parts count and inventory and the number of sewing machines required.



I noticed that icarus does this folding with their channel tape like this while PD used some reinforcement tape with a bartack across the spot that would wear.


Here are the tabs I made, instead of 3/4" I used 1" because people complain that the factory collapsible is too hard to collapse. My plans to buy a tacker were thwarted by the boss of the household who does not agree that there is a significant time cost doing it with a 20U.

It was hard to get both pieces of tape folded to exactly the same dimensions but I think next time I'll just roll it around a 3/32 TIG rod for consistency.

I did speak with Bally finally and they have the tape I need. Really helpful people to deal with.

-Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

0