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dorbie

GoPro snag mitigation

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dorbie

*********Since you're still mocking it up, why not put a couple of flanges at the base that would allow for either nylon screws through the helmet, or for VHB tape to attach?



Thanks, if you see the latest version I added some flanges on the inside for screws but not enough surface area for adhesion as you say.
I did try to model a broader base with a larger diameter circular foot to increase the radius but the boolean geometry operations failed at the time. I now know it was a surface direction problem that I have fixed.

Any additional suggestions would be welcome.

This one seems pretty good - and not too expensive.

http://www.sculpteo.com/en/print/rawa-vision-mold15/yYEjKU4k?uuid=NuwSU6e0JSyWlyi5lxg7Wf

Hmmm... I might be wasting my time :-)

That's an improvement on the original mount. Perhaps I should just tear off my existing mount, I'm starting to regret my use of JBWeld :-)

Let's see where this journey takes me. I have some flanges to add...

You're not wasting your time, but that's there for some ideas.

I think the guy that made that also made whatever file he used to make it available for download.

Check here for more detail:
http://www.watchthybridle.com/2014/08/gopro-anti-snag-mounts/

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The latest iteration:

http://youtu.be/f7zKktRTJN8

It would lock with a simple pop latch at the end of the slide and so be easily detachable (not modeled here).

It's probably a bit bulky for a gopro mount as it evolved from a mount to encase the existing mount.

I have another idea to simply use two cutaway cable channels to mate the two halves and give a quick release in one pull. I like that plan.

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This is just a concept at this time, I might make the 3D models available but I'm not going to productize it.

Given that the requirement is a snag-proof box around an identical 3rd party swivel bracket & camera mounted on a sphere there are going to be similarities. I can't 3D print a product I don't have the model for and this is just a personal project to create something that suits my needs.

My design is larger than it needs to be because it started out encompassing the existing mount, I'll probably change that.

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dorbie


I have another idea to simply use two cutaway cable channels to mate the two halves and give a quick release in one pull. I like that plan.



How would you get the cables inside the helmet and assure a smooth pull?

The mount design is nice, it does look identical to the system Chutingstar offers; a cutaway would make a big difference.

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DSE

***
I have another idea to simply use two cutaway cable channels to mate the two halves and give a quick release in one pull. I like that plan.



How would you get the cables inside the helmet and assure a smooth pull?

The mount design is nice, it does look identical to the system Chutingstar offers; a cutaway would make a big difference.

There would be a permanent portion of the mount on the helmet and a detachable cutaway portion attached with routed cable. I was not considering a cutaway inside the helmet, rather some type of cable loop you could pull that was on the mount itself. It would only detach the top portion of the mount with camera leaving the base plate in place.

What chuting star mount are you referring to? The Square1 design? That is a single part design in two variants, flat base and curved base.

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So I got off my ass and did some work

Here is my design for the rev2 with factory fitted aluminium mount, GoPro 4 housing.
https://youtu.be/kfjUAo4wjII

The part is printing currently and ill post some photos later

Ill test jump this with it mounted by tape but I'm looking to change the internal design to allow it to be mounted with the same bolt that secures the go pro

The cut-out on the left is to easily tilt the camera to the angle I usually jump it in.

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DHemer

So I got off my ass and did some work

Here is my design for the rev2 with factory fitted aluminium mount, GoPro 4 housing.
https://youtu.be/kfjUAo4wjII

The part is printing currently and ill post some photos later

Ill test jump this with it mounted by tape but I'm looking to change the internal design to allow it to be mounted with the same bolt that secures the go pro

The cut-out on the left is to easily tilt the camera to the angle I usually jump it in.



I should probably get off my ass and do some work as well. Looks good.

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If I understand you correctly, the cutaway is at the mount itself?
if so...
Picture a line around the camera, under tremendous load from a spinning canopy. How do you guarantee a release at the point of load? How do you propose the cutaway is reached, if the release is under the snagged line? In the case of a wingsuiter, they won't be able to reach the top of the helmet.

If the cutaway is on the top of the helmet, what prevents it from being snagged at exit points, but allows easy access if it's snagged?

For cutaway purposes, the channels won't help, or am I seeing it wrong?

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What do you guys think of this one:http://grellfab.com/products/cookie-g3

I think it has promise but may interfere with looking down and/or freeflying.

I really like dorbie's design's detachable feature.

I haven't bought the Cookie snagless mount because the giant base is not easily removable.
Chance favors the prepared mind.

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DHemer

So I got off my ass and did some work

Here is my design for the rev2 with factory fitted aluminium mount, GoPro 4 housing.
https://youtu.be/kfjUAo4wjII

The part is printing currently and ill post some photos later

Ill test jump this with it mounted by tape but I'm looking to change the internal design to allow it to be mounted with the same bolt that secures the go pro

The cut-out on the left is to easily tilt the camera to the angle I usually jump it in.



Cool but I don't see how that could conform to a spherical helmet and so would introduce new points of snag at the corners of your mount.

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DSE

If I understand you correctly, the cutaway is at the mount itself?
if so...
Picture a line around the camera, under tremendous load from a spinning canopy. How do you guarantee a release at the point of load? How do you propose the cutaway is reached, if the release is under the snagged line? In the case of a wingsuiter, they won't be able to reach the top of the helmet.

If the cutaway is on the top of the helmet, what prevents it from being snagged at exit points, but allows easy access if it's snagged?

For cutaway purposes, the channels won't help, or am I seeing it wrong?



Good points, a well designed cutaway would provide sufficient mechanical advantage. In essence it just takes a simple lever from the latch to the cable and there are infinite options. In the event of a mechanical failure it should release.

Any design is a compromise, when you start speculating as to what scenarios you might have to cutaway in I return to the basic observation that some cutaway is better than no cutaway and there's a compromise between something your average jumper will mount on their helmets vs. what a more serious camera jumper will or a specialist wingsuiter.

I could imagine you putting together a cable routing option where a sleeve routes the cable from the mount to the neck or chin, but that's not for everyone. In fact it'd be a major turnoff for most jumpers who would otherwise benefit from simpler protection. Something like a dual sided cutaway could be preferable to some fancy routing.

This is exactly the kind of discussion that screams liability, because you could introduce a mount that could reduce risk, but someone will always be waiting in the wings to armchair skydive it and describe how it could have been better. A simple box that is less snag prone than a go-pro mount is a safety improvement especially when you elect to attach it with nylon screws. Making it detachable is a useful feature but my recent iteration has no cutaway, it is just screw mounted with a rail mounting system that eliminates snag points. Introducing a point of failure using nylon screws as part of the installation would be advisable.

Adding a cutaway is an alternative design but doable, adding a cutaway and routing system would be heavily dependent on installation and overall helmet configuration and a separate problem again. It is useful to consider this and how and where a sleeve might be routed to the chin if that is your requirement. But it's not for everyone.

I think I might go with my latest option with nylon screw attachments after I work up a release latch mechanism. The rails will take a lot of finishing work if 3D printed using my available tech.

I might leave fancy cutaway systems for others to upload here.

TBD.

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P.S. I'm not saying you are armchairing this DSE, your experience and generous suggestions have been very helpful, and educational for me.

Ultimately though I don't think you can make a one size fits all mount, that's clearer to me now after your input.

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dorbie

P.S. I'm not saying you are armchairing this DSE, your experience and generous suggestions have been very helpful, and educational for me.

Ultimately though I don't think you can make a one size fits all mount, that's clearer to me now after your input.



I don't think there is a "one-size-fits-all" solution either. I've only seen a couple full-face cutaways that are useful, and the rest just don't seem to care. Having seen multiple helmet snags over the years (one that nearly killed a close friend when his cutaway wouldn't function under load), I strongly suggest people reconsider jumping cameras on a helmet without a cutaway. VHB simply isn't reliable as a "I can peel it off in an emergency" scenario.

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I've kinda been looking into making a detachable mount for Sony action cam for my Rev2. Loosely along the lines of GrellFab, but for a side-mounted camera, with rubberbands being the main element holding the pieces together. I've got a couple ideas on how to approach it, but none 100% convincing, and I just realised that perhaps nylon screws could provide an adequate amount of fail-fast functionality while radically simplifying the design. Does anyone know the breakaway force on those? I've been googling, but I found exactly nothing of use.

Then again, perhaps I could use DHemer's design and go with a GoPro. The advantage of a side-mounted camera is that it doesn't swivel when the faceplate does. But I don't actually open it under canopy, so it wouldn't be such a big problem in practice. A more real gain would be that I already tend to bump into things a lot with my helmet in smaller planes, and the extra protrusion added by GoPro would make it pretty much unavoidable.
"Skydivers are highly emotional people. They get all excited about their magical black box full of mysterious life saving forces."

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mathrick

I've kinda been looking into making a detachable mount for Sony action cam for my Rev2. Loosely along the lines of GrellFab, but for a side-mounted camera, with rubberbands being the main element holding the pieces together. I've got a couple ideas on how to approach it, but none 100% convincing, and I just realised that perhaps nylon screws could provide an adequate amount of fail-fast functionality while radically simplifying the design. Does anyone know the breakaway force on those? I've been googling, but I found exactly nothing of use.

Then again, perhaps I could use DHemer's design and go with a GoPro. The advantage of a side-mounted camera is that it doesn't swivel when the faceplate does. But I don't actually open it under canopy, so it wouldn't be such a big problem in practice. A more real gain would be that I already tend to bump into things a lot with my helmet in smaller planes, and the extra protrusion added by GoPro would make it pretty much unavoidable.



Some nylon screws are designed to break. The smaller the diameter the easier they are to shear off. I try to avoid things on the side of my helmet because that is where the risers are.

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