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Psycho packing & Pilot 188

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I have been doing it on my Pilot 210 ZPX for about 150 jumps. It is working well for me. Very easy to pack this way. I did install a foot long bridle extension.
People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

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Yes, I psycho pack my Pilot 188. (Well over a hundred jumps since I started doing it; although I just recently put in a short 6" extender on the D-bag attachment). I like it for two reasons: 1) so much easier to get into the bag, and 2) you can check that lines, slider, and nose are where they should be after you flop the canopy on the ground, then you don't do anything that could mess them up afterwards (just fold gently, and roll it).

Anyway, what do you want to know?

BTW, I'm not sure a Pilot is any different from any other canopy in it's class/size in terms of packing method.

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Hi,

I have a few questions, firstly has anyone had any problems using this method and it seems like it works just fine. I was wondering if you do anything with the cells. In this Youtube clip he rolls 4 cells to the left, 4 to the right and leaves the center cell open with the slider.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qICN19uaRE

Do you do anything like this? The reason I ask is that this canopy snivels a lot so I don't want to do anything that adds to this.

Apart from tucking the slider a bit, is there anything I can do to reduce the snivel ? If I could get consistent 800' openings then I'd be happy.


Last question is about end cells. In about one opening in five I find that the end cells open unevenly. What seems to happen is that it will sit for a short period of time unil the slider comes down and the end cells will inflate on one side more than the other. This will induce a 1/4 to 1/2 line twist. It seems to happen on the slower openings.

So... does anyone see this problem and if so do you do anything special to prevent it ?

Thanks.

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... In this Youtube clip he rolls 4 cells to the left, 4 to the right and leaves the center cell open with the slider. ... Do you do anything like this?



Yes I do that (rolling them outward). Probably because I saw it in the same video, and don't like hard openings, and thought it would prevent them all getting inflated in one instant. I don't really know if it makes a difference, but I do it just to keep things consistant. (I try to pack the same every time).

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... The reason I ask is that this canopy snivels a lot so I don't want to do anything that adds to this. Apart from tucking the slider a bit, is there anything I can do to reduce the snivel ?


I think it might add just a bit to the snivel, but in my limited experience, the ones where I had a noticably longer snivel the cells were (mostly) inflated, but the slider was just staying up. So I don't think it would have a major impact. But if you want to experiment with it, I'd be interested if you find a difference.

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Last question is about end cells. In about one opening in five I find that the end cells open unevenly. What seems to happen is that it will sit for a short period of time unil the slider comes down and the end cells will inflate on one side more than the other. This will induce a 1/4 to 1/2 line twist. It seems to happen on the slower openings.



I noticed the same thing, although for some reason it seems to be happening less frequently. (Maybe the d-bag extension helped?)

Anyway, I try to be a careful and diligent packer, and the main reason I like this method is the ability to reopen things up and look at your lines and slider after you flop it down to confirm everything is where it is supposed to be. And then the steps you do after that (fold and roll) are very unlikely to disturb things. Although I haven't done it very long (~100 jumps), the worst I have was one "brisk" opening. (where afterwards I said to myself "that seemed kinda harder than usual" but nothing that would keep me from continuing to jump even if they were all like that.)

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With most modern canopies, the manufacturers have tamed the openings quite a bit. I'm sure there are exceptions but most manufacturers don't recommend rolling the nose on modern canopies. From what I can see in the Aerodyne manual, they don't mention it. Just flake the nose and keep it neat and orderly when you are packing it.

The same principals for any good pack job still apply regardless of which packing method you are using. The end result of your pack job should be very symmetrical, the slider should be firmly seated in place and your lines should be straight and neat. One of the things that I've learned is that when I go to lay the canopy down, I do it very gently. Flopping it onto the ground can undo all of the careful work you just put in to it.

Something else you might consider is that your body position on opening can have a lot to do with the way your canopy opens. You should be flying your body all the way through the opening. You might be surprised at the trend your openings take if you are really mindful of being relaxed and symmetrical through those last few seconds of freefall.


Quote

Hi,

I have a few questions, firstly has anyone had any problems using this method and it seems like it works just fine. I was wondering if you do anything with the cells. In this Youtube clip he rolls 4 cells to the left, 4 to the right and leaves the center cell open with the slider.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qICN19uaRE

Do you do anything like this? The reason I ask is that this canopy snivels a lot so I don't want to do anything that adds to this.

Apart from tucking the slider a bit, is there anything I can do to reduce the snivel ? If I could get consistent 800' openings then I'd be happy.


Last question is about end cells. In about one opening in five I find that the end cells open unevenly. What seems to happen is that it will sit for a short period of time unil the slider comes down and the end cells will inflate on one side more than the other. This will induce a 1/4 to 1/2 line twist. It seems to happen on the slower openings.

So... does anyone see this problem and if so do you do anything special to prevent it ?

Thanks.

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what is a psycho pack and what r the difference between that and a pro pack??



http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=search_results&search_forum=all&search_string=Psycho%20Pack&sb=score&mh=25
"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

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I was psycho packing my 188 ZPX Pilot when it was new last year. Contrary to the advertising, it was NOT easy to pack - slippery as shit. so I psyched it until it started behaving itself better. I'm back to PRO packing it now - personal preference. It works just fine. But if you want to do regularly, you should get the bridle extension done.

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As the others have said, I wouldn't think you would have any problems with it.

While I have no particular experience with a Pilot 188, I've psycho-packed for close to 700 jumps on canopies including a Sabre-150, Sabre2-135, Safire2-120, and Pilot-104, and all have worked out fine (the Pilot now has ~100 psycho-pack deployments).

I've never rolled the nose as they recommended in the video you showed, and never had problems with off-heading openings. My Sabre2 used to suffer from closed end cells, but it did that when pro-packed, as well, so I can't blame the packing method.

Overall, I think you're fine doing it...but I echo what others recommend about adding a short bridle extension (just enough to allow the bag to slide cleanly around the roll without too much tension on the bridle inside the bag. Reason being - in case you haven't heard - that there's a hypothesis that psycho-packing can damage a canopy over time as the bridle slides around the fabric when the roll inflates. By adding an extension at the attachment point, you take out the tension that would cause that sort of friction damage to occur.)

Good luck!
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Hi,

I have a few questions, firstly has anyone had any problems using this method and it seems like it works just fine. I was wondering if you do anything with the cells. In this Youtube clip he rolls 4 cells to the left, 4 to the right and leaves the center cell open with the slider.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qICN19uaRE

Do you do anything like this? The reason I ask is that this canopy snivels a lot so I don't want to do anything that adds to this.

Apart from tucking the slider a bit, is there anything I can do to reduce the snivel ? If I could get consistent 800' openings then I'd be happy.


Last question is about end cells. In about one opening in five I find that the end cells open unevenly. What seems to happen is that it will sit for a short period of time unil the slider comes down and the end cells will inflate on one side more than the other. This will induce a 1/4 to 1/2 line twist. It seems to happen on the slower openings.

So... does anyone see this problem and if so do you do anything special to prevent it ?

Thanks.



I have a Pilot 210 with 0.9 WL. I do a pro pack with the nose between my knees. I tuck the front stabilizer corner in round the cells, against the slider on each side. This opens very gently and does not seem to snivel a lot. But, the nose naturally gets pushed in a bit as I work on the pack job. I normally then grab the nose and pull it back out just a little before I bring the tail around. If I don't do that step, it seems to snivel more.
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