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leapdog

CN2053R 20U53

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I just got a brand new consew CN2053R it cousin in the singer 20U53 or some may have seen the tacsew 20u53 knock off.

I have a problem. Was wondering who had any helpfull info.

I put assembled everything and was setting it up so I can rig with it.

In straight stitch mode, it sews fine. Reverse- forward thread tension looks great. I tried it with a 135X5 #18 needle. Regular nylon E thread.

When I go to ZigZag mode it keeps shreading the top thread. I am going full swing of the needle. Thread tension looks good but after about 2 to 3 inches the top thread shreads and breaks.

The manual says the needel is to be 135X9

I am thinking I used the wrong needle but I'm not sure and before I go out and waste time and money I would like to make sure.

Could there be any other issue to look at also?

The manual doesn't give anythign for troubleshooting. My main experience is with a singer 281-30.

If anyone has a service manaul for the CN2053R or 20U53, then I could really use it.

Thanks!

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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I have one of those machines. In fact, I got it because it has the straight stitch and zig-zag and figured it would be a great double-duty machine. It is great for what i need. I made shot-bags and lower steering lines with it. I even sewed up a homemade RDS with it. So it does work for light duty stuff very well in my opinion.

I don't think the needles are the problem. My needles are 135X5 (110X18, & 90X14) even though the manual specifies 1910-05 (135X9). I have not had a problem with the 135X5 needles and got them from the retailer who sold me the machine. He has many years sales and service of these machines.

If the levers and knobs are set correctly, then it would be thread tension, which could be upper or lower which is the problem. Bobbin (lower) thread tension too tight will break upper threads.

One thing to look for is did you rotate the straight stitch locking mechanism to free before zig-zagging with it? There is a knob on the left side of the head, near the bottom where needle goes in the machine. It is a black knob with ridges on it and the end looks like it accepts a flat-head screwdriver. On my machine i turn the knob away from me for straight-stitch mode and towards me for zig-zag. It is important that knob is positioned correctly.

Also for zig-zagging, the setup is finicky. I make sure the knob on the left side is towards me or free and also the two knobs on the front of the machine are also free (or to the right)

Then select the needle position, left, center or right
with the mechanism on the front of the machine.

Then i move the swing lever to where i want it and then turn both knobs on the front of the machine to lock (or left position) left knob locks first then the right knob.

Then i use the hand wheel to do a couple of practice stitches first and then apply power on scrap first to ensure the size is what i want.

Hope that helps, let me know if you need anything else.

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Very helpfull. thank! The instructions are half in japanses and the english is not that great. I just downloaded the singer manual for 20U. I figuer it is the same machine so why not.
Quote

I don't think the needles are the problem. My needles are 135X5 (110X18, & 90X14) even though the manual specifies 1910-05 (135X9). I have not had a problem with the 135X5 needles and got them from the retailer who sold me the machine. He has many years sales and service of these machines.

Good to know. now I don' thave to buy needles.

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One thing to look for is did you rotate the straight stitch locking mechanism to free before zig-zagging with it? There is a knob on the left side of the head, near the bottom where needle goes in the machine. It is a black knob with ridges on it and the end looks like it accepts a flat-head screwdriver. On my machine i turn the knob away from me for straight-stitch mode and towards me for zig-zag. It is important that knob is positioned correctly.

Yes I did this.

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Also for zig-zagging, the setup is finicky. I make sure the knob on the left side is towards me or free and also the two knobs on the front of the machine are also free (or to the right)

I just re-read the manual. I think the two on the front left are lety loosy and righty tighty. The knob on the left side by the needle is toward user lock and away from user unlock.
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Then select the needle position, left, center or right
with the mechanism on the front of the machine.

Shouldn't matter except then doing something that requires the needle to move. like a sewing a zipper to the edge of something.

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Then i move the swing lever to where i want it and then turn both knobs on the front of the machine to lock (or left position) left knob locks first then the right knob.

did this.

The machine moves smoothly and I can adjust swing size. But like I said after about 2 inches or so. The thread doesn't just break it shreads. meaning the twist of the thread is disintegrating one piece at a time.

Tension seems to be fine. The manufacturer send a piece of fabric under the pressure foot with some straight and zigzags on it. the thread used was inthe bobbin so I know that the machine works. but when I put Nylon E and changed the needled and went to check it out. the straight stitch worked well after some upper tension adjusting and the zigzag was shreading threads.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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I think the two on the front left are lety loosy and righty tighty. The knob on the left side by the needle is toward user lock and away from user unlock.



Yes, that is what the manual says, but my machine is ass backwards from this, which is weird, but that is what works on mine. I didn't know if it had to do with something in the translation of the manual to English or what so i wanted to throw it out there.

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Tension seems to be fine. The manufacturer send a piece of fabric under the pressure foot with some straight and zigzags on it. the thread used was inthe bobbin so I know that the machine works. but when I put Nylon E and changed the needled and went to check it out. the straight stitch worked well after some upper tension adjusting and the zigzag was shreading threads.



Huh. Other than tension the only other thing i can think of is the long needle groove not being centered to the front of the machine. I have done that before where the long groove is not directly in front causes problems.

I do not mean to throw basic stuff out there and possibly offend you, just trying to be helpful. Hope you get it figured, like I said it is a great double duty machine once you get it working.

Good luck!

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No offense at all. I appreciate the help. My old rigger mentor saw he post and wrote to me via email too. Haven't talk to him in a while.

anyway. I have the singer service maula now and the singer user manual. better englisha and better instruction period. same machine.

It may be bobbin tension causeing me to tighten the top tension too much.

When I get it straight I'll post the fix. this way anone doing a search can see in the future.

Thanks for the reply. It got the problem solving juices flowing.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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make sure you are using bonded thread. unbonded thread will quickly skiev and break after just a few stitches



E thread form paragear is bonded correct?

@FLJB The needles you are using are good to go. I only doubted for a milisecond but since you said you have ben using them I went with it. Yes they do work. Some how my machine ended up ass backward too. Tthe knobs still work righty tighty and lefty loosy but the needle now moves backward then I move the wing lever and the position knob. Oh well just have to remember and be observant.

@ Base The timing seemed to be the issue. but somehow in all this changing needles and making sure the one I had did have any burs, I put the last on in backward. Once I saw that the 180 degree facing the wrong way and fixed it, I double checked/ fixed timing and now the thing sews like a champ.


Thanks everyone for the help. As a bonus I am attaching the service manual I got from singer. This manual can be used for the consew CN2053R the all the singer 20U models to include tacsew 20U models. It helped me with my machine.

Hope someon can use it.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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***
Don't feel bad; I once spent nearly a 1/2 hour trying to figure out why the thead was not locking during sewing only to realize I had not put the thread thru the eye of the needle. :S

JerryBaumchen



Did that too. a few times. [:/] I attribute that to just being in a hurry.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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Fell free to send me the manuals via PM and I'll post them on Parachutemanuals.com



Sure. PM sent. I guess the attachemnt didn't take in my post. [:/]

Edited to say that the file size even after zipping it is over 200KB. If any one wants it, just PM me the email address.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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Good point. I'll keep it in mind for nay future problems. Il like to fix it myself reading the book. I do all my own stuff that way. gunsmithing, rigging, computers, cars, ect. that way I know what was done and what wasn't. and I don't have to keep calling or going to a tech.

Now obviously if it is well out of my scope I would take it or call someone.

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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good to see some sewing machine threads.. I'm shopping for one myself... the 20U is on my list, maybe a pfaff 130 (?) if I can find a decent one.. of course, they need to be local.. hate to pay shipping on a decent machine w/table
DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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have to do some shopping. it took me a few months. but I knew the 20U or 2053 was going ot be it. I finally found it for 625 with shipping brand new.

I don't think that is horrible. The shipping was 99.00

Gunnery Sergeant of Marines
"I would like it if I were challenged mentally at my job and not feel like I'm mentally challenged." - Co-worker

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good to see some sewing machine threads.. I'm shopping for one myself... the 20U is on my list, maybe a pfaff 130 (?) if I can find a decent one.. of course, they need to be local.. hate to pay shipping on a decent machine w/table



I personally wouldn't waste may time with a Pfaff 130. If you are looking at a Pfaff get a 138 or 238. Overall a better machine. 130's are super old, aren't really around anymore and is more of a home machine than an industrial one. I am not saying that it can't do a lot if not all of the light work that is around. A 138 or 238 is much better equipped to do it.

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good to see some sewing machine threads.. I'm shopping for one myself... the 20U is on my list, maybe a pfaff 130 (?) if I can find a decent one.. of course, they need to be local.. hate to pay shipping on a decent machine w/table



I personally wouldn't waste may time with a Pfaff 130. If you are looking at a Pfaff get a 138 or 238. Overall a better machine. 130's are super old, aren't really around anymore and is more of a home machine than an industrial one. I am not saying that it can't do a lot if not all of the light work that is around. A 138 or 238 is much better equipped to do it.



thanks Jim, thats some handy info... I've already got a line on a local one :)
DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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good to see some sewing machine threads.. I'm shopping for one myself... the 20U is on my list, maybe a pfaff 130 (?) if I can find a decent one.. of course, they need to be local.. hate to pay shipping on a decent machine w/table



I personally wouldn't waste may time with a Pfaff 130. If you are looking at a Pfaff get a 138 or 238. Overall a better machine. 130's are super old, aren't really around anymore and is more of a home machine than an industrial one. I am not saying that it can't do a lot if not all of the light work that is around. A 138 or 238 is much better equipped to do it.



thanks Jim, thats some handy info... I've already got a line on a local one :)



No problem. I own a 138 and it just keeps going problem free. It is great for light to medium rigging work. If you have any specific questions regarding it, send me a PM and I will see what I can do to help.

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good to see some sewing machine threads.. I'm shopping for one myself... the 20U is on my list, maybe a pfaff 130 (?) if I can find a decent one.. of course



Here is an older thread about the 20U type of machines...http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3306166;search_string=singer%2020U;#3306166


For the money, I would look for something more like Beatnik stated; a Pfaff 138, Pfaff 238, or a Singer 143W.

The 143W with a 135x17 needle installed in it will do everything that you will ever come across in the rigging loft with ease.
It also would probably be the cheapest way to go as you can find them for around $250 - $350.

BS,
MEL
Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC
www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

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I ended up buying the 20U that I was asking about in the thread MEL linked to. In general it has been a good machine for me. It can handle a lot of the things a senior rigger is allowed to do and many things one isn't. For light duty work like most canopy work, replacing velcro on risers and toggles, and light binding it's great. Once you get past a couple layers of webbing or into any kind of stiffener it starts to bog down pretty badly. I've coaxed a couple pairs of toggles out of it, but it was rough going and probably not good for the machine long-term.

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Hi Coreef,

Quote

Here is a 238 for #350.00.



According to the ad, that is for head only + $60 for shipping.

You might try:

Sewing Machine Sales Co. 1-800-449-0835

Henderson Sewing Machine. 1-800-824-5113

Ralph's Industrial Sewing Machine Co. 1-800-525-0330

That should get you started & keep you busy for a couple of hours. :P

JerryBaumchen

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