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RandomLemming

Packing problem - tail unwrapping

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Hi all,

I'm hoping someone on here can give me some tips to help fix a problem I'm (still) having with my packing.

I use what I believe is called the reverse bagging method, where I fold the far end of the canopy into the S first, put that into the bag, then fold the end closest to the lines into the bag. I was taught this way as my canopy was very slippery when I first got it - it's still pretty feisty really :)

The problem I have is that during this process, the section of tail that is wrapped around the lines often unwraps, leaving a mess. It often takes 3 or 4 goes of "get the big end into the bag, move back, see that the tail has unwrapped, start again."

I've tried watching other people and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting the wrap about 3cm above the slider, wrapping it tight, holding the wrapped part with the fingers of my left hand and moving down the tail wrapping more. I put about 4 wraps in total.

I then lie the canopy down, and everything looks tight and clean. Next, I put one knee firmly on that wrap at the lines and start working the air out of the canopy, and folding it under to fit the d-bag. At some point between kneeling on it and sitting up to start bagging it is coming loose and unwrapping.

I'm going to go on another packing course in Spain next week in the hopes that they can fix me, but I was just wondering if anyone here had any pointers.

Thanks in advance,

EDIT
Here's an example of what I'm seeing: http://sidsrigging.com/articles/tips_images/gr_4wb.jpg (from http://sidsrigging.com/articles/greed.htm)

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Once you put the canopy on the ground, put both of your knees on the warning label with you facing toward the canopy. Now that you have that end 'secure', you can start to push the air out of the canopy.

Work the canopy in sections, say 12" at a time. Push the air out, and shape the canopy so it's about as wide as the bag. Once you have a 12" section done, scoot your way up the canopy so your knees are now on top of the 12" section you just worked. Repeat this process until you get to the top of the canopy.

If you prefer to do the 'reverse bag' technique, get your bag all straightened out and ready to go, then scoot your knees back down the canopy just far enough to expose just enough canopy to make your first fold. In this way, you keep control of the canopy as you work your way up the canopy pushing the air out, and then back down the canopy putting it in the bag.

When you do put your knees on the canopy, make sure they are not in the exact center, but closer to each edge, If you put them in the center, it leaves room for the canopy to 'squirt' out to the side while you work. If you place them just outside of the center, the canopy will only be able to 'squirt' itself to the inside, where it's contained by the outer skin of the canopy.

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Thanks - I'll go to the field and give that a try tonight :)

I realised that it's time to put some proper effort into fixing this problem this weekend, when I was standing reaching all the way down into my canopy to dress it and thinking about downsizing from a 188 to a 90-something ;)

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Wrapping the tail around the canopy is a mere convenience when stuffing it in the d-bag.
If the tail starts to unwrap, it makes little difference to openings.
The major point is: is the slider hard up against the top of the lines?
You can check - slider position - by sliding your hand up the lines just before stuffing the bottom potion of the canopy into the d-bag.

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I also use this technique - here is what I do:

Cocoon the canopy and lay it down. Next adopt a position where I am kneeling down but sitting on my right foot. I have the sole of my foot against my ass and the top of my foot against the floor (try it - it's not as weird as it sounds!).

I sit like this with my back to the container and the top of my right foot applying pressure where the tail wraps around the lines (to stop it unrolling) and the rest of the cocoon between my legs.

I can then make the S-fold in the d-bag end of the cocoon and place it between my knees to control the width.

Place this end in the bag and then move the right foot off the lines and grasp this end of the canopy with one hand. At this point I usually make a final check that the slider is still against the stops and then put it in the bag.

I hope that all makes sense - it is hard to describe in words!

Good luck.
"The ground does not care who you are. It will always be tougher than the human behind the controls."

~ CanuckInUSA

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Here is a video about it.



Watching that video I see one issue. I was taught never ever to pull the tail around that much and that far out. When you do you start to pull lines around to the front and are inviting a line over. It makes sense, just to see one day after I brought the tail up and started rolling I carried the roll all the way down and continued to pull it out. When I unwrapped it my steering lines were all pulled around the canopy towards the front.

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Watching that video I see one issue. I was taught never ever to pull the tail around that much and that far out. When you do you start to pull lines around to the front and are inviting a line over. It makes sense, just to see one day after I brought the tail up and started rolling I carried the roll all the way down and continued to pull it out. When I unwrapped it my steering lines were all pulled around the canopy towards the front.



That is why I Psycho Pack. After I Lay the Canopy on the floor I open the tail up and run my hands up behind the lines and make sure that everything is behind the Nose when I make my two folds. Then I flip it back over and make my S-Folds.

My canopy has 20 jumps on it and it is slick as shit, I can Pro-Pack others, but mine is too damn slick. I have a Saber2 and if I Psycho Pack I open on Heading everytime with no issues.
If you do things that don't make you appreciate life than why do them

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When you do you start to pull lines around to the front and are inviting a line over. It makes sense, just to see one day after I brought the tail up and started rolling I carried the roll all the way down and continued to pull it out. When I unwrapped it my steering lines were all pulled around the canopy towards the front.


And I got a jump with a cap instead of a helmet. I almost lost it on a sub-terminal opening. What is that having common with the tail? If you throw something into a wind of 100+ Km/h it might not stay still even you expect it...;)

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That is why I Psycho Pack. After I Lay the Canopy on the floor I open the tail up and run my hands up behind the lines and make sure that everything is behind the Nose when I make my two folds. Then I flip it back over and make my S-Folds.



Not sure I understand - the psycho pack I have seen on Youtube doesn't use s-folds, it rolls the canopy.

Regardless, psycho pack is not an option for me. I contacted Aerodyne about it when I first got my canopy a few years back, and they advised that they do not support or recommend the psycho pack, so I've never learned / practiced how to do it.

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Hmmm...That's interesting. I also contacted aerodyne about 1 year ago and asked their thoughts on psycho packing their canopies. I explained that I was really struggling getting my pilot into the bag with a normal pro pack but that I could very easily and neatly bag it with the psycho pack method. They told me that a neat psycho pack is MUCH better than a sloppy pro pack. And this was the case with me. I've been psycho packing ever since and I LOVE it. Definitely works for me.

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thinking about downsizing from a 188 to a 90-something ;)

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That won't make the problem go away, smaller canopy goes in a smaller d-bag. Unless you put the 90 in the 188 bag. Then you'll have some other more serious problems. :o

Sometimes you eat the bear..............

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Hey Guys,

I'm really considering using Gábor method. If anyone with experience can make a critique for Gábor method, so that I would have a glimpse of what I'm getting myself into it, it would be really appreciated.
I'm worried that while the method works fine for Gábor (who has a lot of experience) it might not be suitable for a noob like myself. I mean, would it be more easily to fuck up and get a line over with this method?

Regards,
Jean-Arthur Deda.
Lock, Dock and Two Smoking Barrelrolls!

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Hey Guys,

I'm really considering using Gábor method. If anyone with experience can make a critique for Gábor method, so that I would have a glimpse of what I'm getting myself into it, it would be really appreciated.
I'm worried that while the method works fine for Gábor (who has a lot of experience) it might not be suitable for a noob like myself. I mean, would it be more easily to fuck up and get a line over with this method?

Regards,
Jean-Arthur Deda.


Thanks for calling as Gabor method, but I can not take the credit. It's Wolmary pack with reverse-S bagging.

Does that thing that you fold the tail(ear) over the nose with "traditional packing" bothers you?

You fold the tail behind the nose with Wolmary pack.

I was a noob like you with a brand new canopy when I started to pack like that. It works for me. B|

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thinking about downsizing from a 188 to a 90-something ;)

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That won't make the problem go away, smaller canopy goes in a smaller d-bag. Unless you put the 90 in the 188 bag. Then you'll have some other more serious problems. :o



I was kidding, honest. It's just frustrating as it is easier for me to pack a smaller canopy - there is less fabric to control, and i don't have to reach across such large areas. But I have no intention of downsizing at all, not even to a 170, and my container would fit one of those - I like my 188, especially when flying at higher altitude DZs !

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