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fogobo

Can't flair

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Hey, I'm an old timer who just got back into the sport after 30 years. I got about 1600 jumps on rounds and another 100 or so on some of the first squares and some on triangular things. Anyway, I am now jumping a Sabre 2 - 170 and I can not get the flair right. I crash and burn in low wind conditions. I flair too low, or too high, or not quick enough, or too much too soon. Someone please take the time to put a good description together to help me do it right.:(

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D-944!?! Holy crap!

But Ive found flaring to be more of feeling what the canopy is doing. When I first pull on the toggles I can feel and see the canopy plane out and start to fly more level. When I get really close to the ground I just finish it out nice and even (according to what winds are doing) and step right down.

Talk to instructors out there. Thats kind of what they do.
Muff #5048

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Hey, I'm an old timer who just got back into the sport after 30 years. I got about 1600 jumps on rounds and another 100 or so on some of the first squares and some on triangular things. Anyway, I am now jumping a Sabre 2 - 170 and I can not get the flair right. I crash and burn in low wind conditions. I flair too low, or too high, or not quick enough, or too much too soon. Someone please take the time to put a good description together to help me do it right.:(



What is your wing loading?

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That's the same canopy as mine!

The worst time I had flaring under my Sabre 170 was when the brake lines got replaced for the first-ever time, I suddenly had a big batch of bad landings. I was unfamiliar with the fact I had to pre-position my toggles at the tail deflection, rather than all the way at the loops. Formerly there was no loose brake line, now there was plenty of loose brake line, I had never jumped a canopy that had some loose slack in brake line before.

Basically, if there's 7 inches of loose brake line, hold your brakes 7 inches down away from the ring at the brake stow. That made it much easier for me to do a dyamic flare. Basically eliminate the slack by feeling for the tension of tail deflection, and hold there while waiting for the ground to get close -- that's the top of the 'flare band'...

It probably does not apply to your situation (a familiarity issue with modern canopies) but it might be one of several contributing factors to the difficulty of starting a smooth dynamic flare... Simply put, I was at the time, unfamiliar with adapting to changes to my gear.

Try a rental Sabre 230, 190, 170 -- the Sabre progression I did before buying my gear. It's much easier to land a Sabre 230 accurately in zero winds than a Sabre 170.

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BTW I disgree with your sig line....arch before you leave (punch)...... later is too late.,,,but thats another discussion



My last "arch" is for my arms. My body is arched the whole time. I also didn't include my final altimeter check, but it's just a sig line. :|
SCR #14809

"our attitude is the thing most capable of keeping us safe"
(look, grab, look, grab, peel, punch, punch, arch)

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Hey, I'm an old timer who just got back into the sport after 30 years. I got about 1600 jumps on rounds and another 100 or so on some of the first squares and some on triangular things. Anyway, I am now jumping a Sabre 2 - 170 and I can not get the flair right. I crash and burn in low wind conditions. I flair too low, or too high, or not quick enough, or too much too soon. Someone please take the time to put a good description together to help me do it right.:(



Well, if you jump at a DZ with some good instructors, get some instruction. Get somebody to film your landings, review the footage with more current skydivers.

Good luck!

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