TEMPORARY Brake line extenders

[g-bomb 0]

So, I have a question for DIY folks here:
When I do a front riser turn, my canopy buffets and there is a small deflection of the rear part of the canopy (aka the "aileron"). I think brake lines are too short for my set up and I wanted to experiment with lengthening them, but the lines come pre-configured from factory with toggle loops bar tacked.
So, once I dial the proper length I would to replace the lower steering line, but for the dialing process I wanted to make several extenders from microline by fingertrapping and tacking 2 loops at each end of a line. This way I can tie a larks head to existing line and try to add several different lengths and evaluate turn, flare etc.
The strength of this connection is same as in the cascades - so I know it works. The only potential drawback I see is some friction when brake line loop goes through the ring on the riser, but this again is a temporary issue.
Let me know your thoughts and sorry for a wordy post...

[AggieDave 6]

What if you had your rigger simply replace the lower control lines with a fresh set that had enough extra line for you to find the correct toggle setting for you? Then when you're done you can have that rigger put a bar tack in the line if you so desire (or leave it tied and finger trapped so you can adjust things later after the line shrinks a little).

Basically, why re-invent the wheel, especially when you're going to have to replace the lowers anyways?

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[g-bomb 0]

Quote

What if you had your rigger simply replace the lower control lines with a fresh set that had enough extra line for you to find the correct toggle setting for you?

Yes, but there are other caveats:
1. line is not bad, so if canopy is supposed to behave like this and brakes are not to blame then why would I replace a good line?

2. once the brake drag, if indeed it was the culprit, is gone I could use several new sizes of extenders to dial flare/flight characteristics to my liking

3. canopy flies straight, so by extending both lines with extenders of the same size it should continue to do so. If I hand tie brake lines, then retie them 2 inches lower, then again 1 inch lower ... I run a bigger chance needing eventually to flare cock-eyed to counteract the built-in turn I have created.

so, is there a problem in trying this approach?

Thanks!

[gearless_chris 1]

Quote

What if you had your rigger simply replace the lower control lines with a fresh set that had enough extra line for you to find the correct toggle setting for you? Then when you're done you can have that rigger put a bar tack in the line if you so desire (or leave it tied and finger trapped so you can adjust things later after the line shrinks a little).

Basically, why re-invent the wheel, especially when you're going to have to replace the lowers anyways?

That's what I did with my Cobalt. Instead of tying the fingertraps we put some hand stitches in so the knot wouldn't catch the guide ring. The hand stitches hold fine and are easier to remove for fine tuning than bar tacking. They're also below the catseye so they don't see opening shock. Mine started bucking with 1 1/2 inches of front riser input, it was waaaaay off. I started with 4 inches longer than stock. I left enough extra in the finger traps that the ends almost touched. I finally ended up with almost 6 inches longer than stock. Good luck

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[gearless_chris 1]

Not all canopies are set up to use front risers from the factory. Some people like the quick toggle response. You will also move the flare point lower in your stroke, some people may have a problem with that.
There is something wrong with your current brakeline, it's too short for you. Try watching your brakelines up by the cascades while you're doing a front riser turn, it'll be obvious if you're pulling the tail also, you'll see it. I shouldn't have to say it but I will anyway, clear your traffic before hand since you're not watching where you're going.

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[AggieDave 6]

Quote

1. line is not bad, so if canopy is supposed to behave like this and brakes are not to blame then why would I replace a good line?

If your tail is being deflected and the canopy buffets while performing a front riser maneuver on a properly manufactured Cobalt, then your control lines are too short. Its a common issue with some people's toggle settings. There is a "happy medium" for getting enough toggle stroke out of your canopy and not deflecting the tail while performing front riser maneuvers.

The point is that although some sort of Rube Goldberg line extensions may work, you'll end up replacing your lower control lines in the end. So all you would have accomplished is creating more headache and work for your rigger. That directly relates to how much $$$$ it costs to have your rigger do the work.

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[gearless_chris 1]

Amen!

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[davelepka 4]

The loop the toggle goes through is created by fingertrapping the bottom of the upper control line into a loop. The lower control line is attached to this loop by being fingertrapped to the bottom of the loop. This finger trap is pulled tight around the line so there is no second loop created. Both of these fingertraps are sewn down, usually with a bar tack.

The bottom of the lower control line is fingertrapped into a loop, then an overhand knot is placed just above the loop, locking the fingertrap into place (no sewing required). This loop is where the toggle is attached.

When you make the bottom fingertrap, you intentionally make the loop so the portion of the line you fingertrap up into itself has 6 or 8 inches of additional length, which ends up being 'stored' inside the lower control line.

When you go to set the length of your lowers, you use the excess to allow you to move the bottom fingertrap (and loop) up or down on the line. There's no sewing required, and you don't need to construct or attach different length lines. The lowers are essentailly adjustable.

[Ronaldo 0]

I have a clean and easier solution for you. Remove the line from cats eye to toggle. Get some 1000lbs Microline and fingertrap it to the catseye. Lock it using Jump Shack’s sewless method. Mark the position you want the toggle to be (I suggest you use Cobalt’s trim chart) and make another loop sized only enough for the toggle to go through. Lock this loop again using the sewless method. Insert the toggles and jump! I made my entire brake line using this method. There is not a single bartack or zigzag on it, from cascade to toggle. You can readjust the line whenever you want just by undoing the knot (check Jump Shack’s instructions).
I'll take a picture later for you.

Engineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted

[hookitt 0]

With spectra line, I made the lower part under the cateye several inches longer than it needed to be and put a finger trapped loop into it for the toggle.

You can figure 8 around the toggle and grommet until the brakeline is as long as you want it. Go a few inches longer than the stock suggested setting.

When the brake line shrinks, you can undo the extra figure eights as needed.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[gearless_chris 1]

Let me know your thoughts and sorry for a wordy post...

You're doing fine for someone that learned English from skateboarders. Where are you jumping now?

"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

[billvon 2,379]

>why would I replace a good line?

Because it's cheap and easy to do, and it will work better.

>so, is there a problem in trying this approach?

The additional knot will catch when you flare and will wear out quickly.

[phildthedildo 0]

you mean lower steering lines NOT brake lines