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thestalkmore

Flaking while Packing

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are you grabbing the nose of your cells and giving them a good shake back and forth? this does wonders for settling things in. turn your canopy slightly sideways and lay all your cells over your thigh, grab them and shake them back and forth while holding the canopy out and up with your other hand by the lines. this helps align things pretty well for me. then put one lineset over each shoulder to widen out the canopy. Start up front, the lines should mostly all be in their groups from the shaking of the nose. It's kinda hard to explain and easier to show, but do spend some time with a packer. Most won't mind helping you out, especially with a little liquid compensation. ;)

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I agree with earlier posts. Take the nose, shake the canopy with a push/pull motion. Once you are ready to start flaking, start with the brake lines, grab them and lift up to better see the next line set. Keep the brake lines in hand, grasp the next line set, flake, and continue. By grasping the line sets together it takes some of the guess work out of the process.
Two words that get you in trouble, ALWAYS and NEVER

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Hey everyone,

I have the most horrendous time flaking my canopy while doing pro packs, and it seems to be the only thing I really struggle with. Anyone have any tips on how to make that whole process easier? I can't seem to identify my line groups and stick them in the right folds.



Buy a Pilot, my flaking is VERY easy ;)
"If this post needs to be moderated I would prefer it to be completly removed and not edited and butchered into a disney movie" - DorkZone Hero

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Like someone else said, this is far easier to show than tell, but I was taught to look at the knots. When the nose is between your legs and the canopy hanging off your shoulder, the knots in each line group are all at the same level, and the different groups are at different levels. (For a 9cell) there will be 4 knots at each level, and the A, B, C, D, and steering will be at lower levels as you progress.
Hope this helps.
"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

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You could also split the lines with your head before flaking and after sticking the tail between your legs.

After counting out the cells of the nose and putting them between my legs, i lift the slider and grab the left side lines of the canopy and duck my head under the left side lines and then have the left side lines on my left shoulder and right side lines on my right shoulder. i put the middle of the slider behind my head so it does not go sliding back down the lines.

I started doing it when i first started packing because i was trying to pack 230's and i am not that tall. It helped to reduce some of the clutter from all the lines in one place and it works just as well on small canopies too. i have seen others doing it as well so it works.

just remember to put both sides back together and place the slider correctly after you are done flaking and before you wrap the tail.

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What did the trick for me was when a rigger hung my student canopy up and I was able to take some time to look at the design of the canopy. I was able to understand how packing works and where the line groups actually were. After that it was just counting and moving my hands down the canopy following a seam.:)

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Some canopies used to come that way from the factory.



Some still do: ie: every Aerodyne canopy except for their tandem A2 and their Smart Reserve.

:D


I don't think it's all of them. My Triathalon didn't but my lovely Pilot does.
"If this post needs to be moderated I would prefer it to be completly removed and not edited and butchered into a disney movie" - DorkZone Hero

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Are there any riggers that can comment on the compatability of the Shapie ink with the line attachment tabs?



Last time I saw that debate come up on dz.com, there was no resolution that I recall. No proof that all chemicals (and pH especially) were compatible with nylon attachment tape and thus safe, yet no real evidence of actual harm occurring. Just guessing that marked tabs are probably fairly low on the list of things that will wear out and fail on a canopy over the next 2000 jumps.

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Maybe you should pro pack using a hook. That way your hands are free and you can work from the front of the suspended canopy. Second suggestion, use wax coloring markers, mark the white tapes at the attachment point of the lines like for instance : blue for the D lines, green for the C, yellow for the B and red for the A. That will help you to identify your set of lines. Also before flacking take in each hand, the 2 front risers together and the 2 rear risers together starting near the container and going at the canopy then spread your 2 hands and shake well while keeping the canopy fabric hanging. That will set the groups of lines together. It is always confusing a bit at the beginning but after a while it will be quite easier.
Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

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Hey everyone,

I have the most horrendous time flaking my canopy while doing pro packs, and it seems to be the only thing I really struggle with. Anyone have any tips on how to make that whole process easier? I can't seem to identify my line groups and stick them in the right folds.



First off, you're probably having a harder time because at your jump numbers, you're jumping a bigger canopy. It's often tough to pack bigger canopies over your shoulder until you get the hang of it. Might want to use the hook, as someone else just suggested. (But don't get to where you depend on it - a lot of DZ's don't have 'em). ;)

As far as line groups go, look for an older video called 'Pack Like a Pro'. It shows some interesting angles of the line groups in a pro-pack that really helped me. Here's my suggestions (some of which are repeats):

1) Make sure you give it a good shake. See comments above.

2) Keep the lines over one shoulder, and leave the slider down. Use the slider as a guide - the grommet closest to you on each side only has A/B lines, and the one furthest has C/D/brake lines.

3) Don't think about the lines, so much as the fabric in-between the lines. So you're looking for the space between:

A-B groups - 1st grommet
B-C groups - between 1st & 2nd grommet
C-D groups - 2nd grommet

4) If you start from the outside & find the stabilizer in-between each line group, then work your way in, it's easier. Again, think of separating the 2 line groups by folding the fabric in-between them - not grouping the line groups together.


Hopefully some of that made sense. It's tough to describe without a visual aid - best bet is to talk to someone at your DZ and ask for their pointers. Everyone's got a trick or two, and some will work for you, some won't.

One thing's for certain - it only gets easier with practice. Good luck! :)
Signatures are the new black.

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Something I've noticed while supervising and teaching a few how to pack is that there is a tendency to over-manipulate it and muck up the work you've already done.

I have found to flake let's say the B-C material I will secure the B lines and pull the C lines out so the nylon is stretched out straight then follow that with a quick tuck so as the line groups go back together the flake falls in place. I flake from A-D if that makes sense.

I far prefer doing tandems and student rigs hanging but most DZ's do not have the facilities to hang a canopy so I feel it is important to learn the over the shoulder method as well.

-Michael

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As far as videos go, this one is without a doubt, one of the best, not to mention free!

It was put together by PD, and not only does it tell you what steps to follow, but why you're doing it.

http://www.skydivingmovies.com/...6&string=packing



Seriously? The audio sucks, they don't go into too much detail for the different steps, and you can't really see what they're doing while flaking. I suppose you get what you pay for.

As far as tips go, I was taught what I believe to be a superior method to your normal nose shake. With the canopy over your shoulder, take the nose into the hand opposite from the shoulder that the lines are on (lines on left shoulder, nose in right hand). Then take the rear line groups below (towards the ground) in your left hand. Then while holding the nose and rear lines in your hands, vigorously spread your arms as far apart as they will go. With any luck, you will be limited by the chordwise length of the canopy. The idea hear is to straighten out the fabric and there for the lines. You should be able to look down into the canopy and see all of the line groups in place and together. If not, give it another swing/stretch. At this point, most of the flaking should be done, but I sill put the nose between my knees and check it (especially the C and D groups) for good measure. Good luck!
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