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karenmeal

Buying a Used Car

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Any advice?

I know almost nothing about cars but want to go out and look around today. I'll take any car I consider purchasing to a mechanics first to get inspected. But I don't want to waste a bunch paying for inspections.. what are some things that I can look for? I downloaded a check list off of the better business bureau website, but I don't even know how to check some of those things.. doh.

Does flashing cash at people really help lower the price? Other good bargaining techniques?

"Life is a temporary victory over the causes which induce death." - Sylvester Graham

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The only bargaining trick I know (and used semi-unintentionally to get a great deal on a new car) is:

Maintain your interest in the vehicle and your position that the price is too high. BUT do not say what you are willing to pay. The person who speaks first loses. Eventually, if you are patient, and they crack first, you will get them to spill what is the lowest they will accept (and in some cases this may be the asking price, but that's unlikely).

Always say less than necessary: it's not only a bargaining technique, it's one of the 48 laws of power, and a great way to govern your interactions with people in general.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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I have lots of advise...but am on my way out the door right now....go and out and look around for now...get a feel for whats out there in your area..year/make/model/milage/options....dont buy anything..just get a feel...and write down the info you gather....I will post some more advise later today ....

Thats if you want to wait and get advise from a master mechanic ;)

Edited to add:.....think toyota or honda.


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When you look at the car in-person, check to see if any manuals, repair or maintenence records are in it or ask if they will be available upon delivery.

See if the dealer provides a Carfax Report --or get one done yourself. This can provide a mechanical history, Lemon Law issues or repair disclosures.

http://www.carfax.com/

To get a good sense of what car prices are or should be in the used market you might check these sites --

http://www.edmunds.com/

http://www.kbb.com/

http://nada.com/

You will also want to know what their inspection process is and what it includes --

Examples are given on various sites and range from 99 to 150 point inspections with the average being 120/125 or so.

There are many ways to buy a used vehicle with little issue as long as you have these things in mind as well as a few models that you have narrowed your search to. Don't be afraid to leave a dealer that your instincts tell you are not being forthcoming or fair. You say YES, when and if you want to and it's the car you really want.

Best of luck and enjoy your car once you have picked one!

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I hate to say this, but take Jeff (or a male friend) with ya, especially if you're going to look at cars at dealers. Sadly, people will see you as "cute young blonde girl who I can totally manipulate," even though we all know you're way too smart for that, they won't and they'll probably play more games.
"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke

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He'll be coming with me to actually buy the car and give a final vote of approval. I would like to do the talking though, I've just never gotten to do something like that and want to get better at being assertive.

Yesterday I pulled a total blonde move when checking out a car and test driving it. Drove it around, seemed alright to me (but what do I know?) and then took it to a mechanic for a quick free inspection. First thing the mechanic says to me, "Did you notice that the check engine light is on?" Doh! Nope. Not at all. Didn't even check that. I noticed that the windshield had dings in it and the upholstery was a bit wonky.. but didn't even check out the check engine light! I want to avoid doing something like that again today!

"Life is a temporary victory over the causes which induce death." - Sylvester Graham

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OK...where to begin....well 1st off...dont expect miricles from over the interweb...

The reason I said to look at Toyota and Honda is because as a mechanic I do less repairs to those makes then any other...in other words...I make very little money off them...I do basic maintance including brake jobs etc but very rarely have to do...lets say a waterpump or a ball joint compaired to a domestic car or other imports...

there is nothing wrong for the most part with Subaru or Nissan or Mazda...but Toyota and Honda are superior quality IMO. I wont even mention the domestic makes :|



My 1st question to you is...What are you looking for?....sedan/coupe/wagon/suv/etc etc????

Tell me what you want.



Some things to look for on initial inspection are...how does the vehicle look?? pay special attn to the interior...if there are cig burns and stains or stains that someone has tried to clean ....generally...if someone is too lazy or dosent care about the interior of the vehicle they drive..then they dont give a shit about maintance!!!...a interior in pristine condition does not mean that the person cared about maintance either though ...or visa vera..but all are things to look at tally up.....

Look at the tires...get down on ure side and look at the tread...are the tires new?.....are they worn out or half worn??...are they worn evenly across the tread?tires worn unevenly indicate a problem(another long spiel)

take the oil filler cap off...does it look clean?...or do you see sludge or a white froth?........automatic transmission fluid...is it nice and pink or dark or even black.....does it smell burnt?....take the rad cap off(do only when engine is cold!!!!!) does the coolant look either a nice green or redish pink?...is there crap built up on the rad cap and rad neck or does the coolant recovery tank look scuzzy on the inside??

on the road test..are there any dash lights on?;)...does the car drive straight with only minimal input from the steering wheel?....does the car continue to drive straigh under braking?...under heavy braking?...test the ABS if the car is equiped...check the A/C on the raod test and at idle..it should near freeze you out of the car with the blend door on recircualte...check the heater also...again...roast ya...etc etc.

OK..I am tired of typing...I could go on all night...post back with what your looking for and at. and I will contine to spew info ;)


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I went to a nearby Chevy dealer to look. They had a 2001 Prism Four -door sedan. They told me it was bought at an auction at the GM Tech Center motor pool four miles down the road ,Ok I asked what mileage it got compared to my Neon, which got 40.5 on the higfhway. After looking it up I was assured it got 39 to 40 easilyOK I took it. I got a real surprise when I opened the fuel door to see a "HERTZ" HOTLINE number It was the first lie. The second was the mileage About 29. They looked up the 5 speed stick not the 3speed no over drive. After calling GM they said they allow their dealers do what ever it takes to make a sale. The "Indian" salesman said he doesnt speak english very good. I must have misunderstood him. Needless GM has sold the last car ever to me. If your sales staff wont at least split the title search with you buy else where. It also shows accident history too. Look out for new paint a poorly aligned doors and fenders. {accident} If the seat , arm rest and lower rught corner of the brake pedal, its more used than the odometer says..Alot of cars are turned in leases. It is probably safe to get a car from down south. Was it under water after Katrina

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Hey,

Today I have a bit better idea of what I am looking forward. I checked out consumer reports and read a bunch of reviews on different cars and have narrowed it down to a Honda CRV, accord, impreza or forester. The Hondas had much better reliability according to consumer reports, and in online customer reviews.

The features that I am looking for are great reliability, reasonable-good gas mileage (Mid to upper 20's), enough cargo room for camping, skydiving and backpacking gear, 3 people and a large dog, and good handling in snow and on dirt-roads.

I guess that covers it. From the bit of research that I did.. the CRV seemed to cover those things well.

"Life is a temporary victory over the causes which induce death." - Sylvester Graham

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cant go wrong with a CRV :)

now get out there and feed me some data from the ones ya look at.

Dont just buy the name...buy the car...errrr mini suv....still lots to look at with each one you check out even before you bring them to a mechanic to checkout in detail for ya.

Edited to add:...all wheel drive is excellent for your criteria...but remember...4 bald tires on a all wheel drive is no better then 2 bald tires on a front or rear wheel drive......check out the rubber on the car your buying....another note....the smaller the tire the cheaper it is to replace....I always laugh at people who buy a new car/truck with 17 or 18 in tires when they complain about the cost of new tires...:S


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Yeah, Rav 4 made my list too.. and definitely the forester.

I'm e-mailing someone about a 97 CRV with 111,000 miles with good service records. He wants 7500.. Think I should offer 6,000 if a mechanic gives it a thumbs-up?

"Life is a temporary victory over the causes which induce death." - Sylvester Graham

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But hows about when dealing with a private party?

The person I'm e-mailing with just told me he is set on the price of 7500 (which is substantially over the edmunds and kelley blue book price).. How do I get him to bring that down without being rude?

-Karen

"Life is a temporary victory over the causes which induce death." - Sylvester Graham

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Quote

But hows about when dealing with a private party?

The person I'm e-mailing with just told me he is set on the price of 7500 (which is substantially over the edmunds and kelley blue book price).. How do I get him to bring that down without being rude?

-Karen



Have you checked out this one yet?


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Politely tell him the car is out of your price range. Ask him to get in touch with you should he reconsider his asking price in the near future.

Sounds like he may owe more on the than it is worth - In the car-dealing trade that is known as being "upside-down".

Easy Does It

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I always preform a snif test of the dip sticks. If either the oil or tranny fluid smells toasted forget it. Make sure the antifreeze isn't brown. And no foam in the oil as well. Also if it is manual make sure you get a test drive.
I chose the Toyota I was looking at over the Subaru because the clutch felt better, and I don't want to do a clutch job on a AWD vehicle.
Also compare their asking price to the Kelly Blue Book value as well as the red book value. Try to pay red book, but negotiate somewhere between blue book and red book value.
The Subaru I was looking at also had an asking price way above blue book value
Divot your source for all things Hillbilly.
Anvil Brother 84
SCR 14192

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Red book value is basically the trade in price. If you ever try to trade in a car that is what a dealer would give you. it is a rediculous low ball so never give that as a figure.
As was previously mentioned don't let the seller know how high you are willing to go. Just let him keep lowering his price, by saying it is a little pricy.
A tactic that is a little shady that my brother uses is pay all in 20's and then talk every time the person you are buying from tries to count.
Divot your source for all things Hillbilly.
Anvil Brother 84
SCR 14192

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I just read through the entire thread...and there is alot of really good advice. The Master Mech is really correct in everythign he said. I am also a honda fan. I've owned nothign but honda for the last 5 years. They are very reliable as long as the basic maintainance is performed. The advice i will give also....which i have found to ALWAYS work..when dealing with dealerships...is the ability to walk away. i tell everyone that i know that is looking to buy a car that...and you cant imagine how much money they have knocked off the sticker price! My boy matt wanted a mitsubishi 3000GT....he was dead set on getting one. Not my preferred car but eh..oh well. He found one..and i went with him. The one he found was in realllllllllly good shape inside and out. hell..i was impressed witht he condition. They were asking 9000 for it...which honestly..i think it was worth int he 10 range(trust me...it really was!). well..he walked away 3 times during the negotiating and ended up paying 6,800 out the door with tax, tag, and title! he bought it 3 years ago now..has been doing hte basic maintainance and still has had no issuse other than having to replace a belt!
"Age has absolutely nothing to do with knowledge, learning, respect, attitude, or personality." -yardhippie
"Fight the air, and the air will kick your ass!!! "-Specialkaye

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Never count cash in front of someone until the deal is worked out. Negotiation is like playing poker, don't show your cards until you absolutely have to.

I wont go into all the stuff leading up to the sale. I think that you have a good idea as to what to look for, and taking it to a mechanic is something that should be done.

When it comes down to negotiation, maintain control of the situation. Salesmen are trained that as soon as they can gain control they will make a sale. If you are looking at a dealership make the salesman work for the sale. If he/she tries to show you a car that you don't like, don't even sit in it. Tell them that it is not what you are looking for. (when I sold cars, if I could get someone to get in the car and go for a test drive I would close at least 50% of those deals. National closing average for a salesman talking to someone on the lot is about 25% for just saying "Hi")

IF you arent trading a car in, just buying one outright, they are going to negotiate less. A lot of profit is made on the trade. The biggest money maker for car dealerships is not the sales floor, it is the Finance office. Good F&I managers in large metro areas have a base salary of over 100K a year. They are worth thier weight in gold. I worked a amall dealership as an F&I manager and covered the nut for the entire store for several months.

Let the sales guy pencil the first deal, then hit him way under where he is quoting you. Make sure that when you test drive the car that you inspect every square inch of it. When he looks at you like you are crazy for low-balling him so badly, just tell him that if the car was in perfect condition that it "might" be worth what he is quoting you for a price. But since there are these things (list a few of the deficiencies) wrong with it, the car is at best worth only ______. Then, do not allow him the opportunity to talk, just tell him that if he wants to "earn" your business that he will make the deal "reasonable". If he is any good, this is where you go back and forth over the price. A bad sales guy will run for the "boss". This is your opportunity to haggle. He should always try to meet your price, if he doesn't, get up and walk out. There are literally thousands of cars out there that match what you are looking for, so don't lock in on a particular car. Falling in love with a specific car will get you screwed because you arent thinking rationally and will jump a lot deeper in something than you want. What ever you do, maintain control. Say things like, "do you have some water?" and tell him to bring the car around to meet you in a specific spot, tell him that you want to drive the car overnight or for a few days so that you can see how it fits into your life. If he gets overly intense, say that you forgot to make a call and pull out your cell phone and call a friend reminding to do something mundane (like take out the trash), it will blow his momentum.

I can keep going on here for pages and pages, but let me know what if this helps. I have literally sold hundreds of cars, as a finance manager I negotiated every single car deal that came through the store. I have a ton of experience.

Josh
The primary purpose of the Armed Forces is to prepare for and to prevail in combat should the need arise.

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