Car Mechanics??? Honda peeps

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Wow.
Firstly: cold air is more dense than warm, so the colder the air the more O2 in its makeup (assuming O2 has an equal distribution) The more O2 you can get into and engine the more fuel you can put in. (to a point). So, if all other things remain equal and you install a CAI (cold air intake), you have just put in MORE O2, thus leaning out the mixture.

Second: if all they were doing was looking for codes, you could be screwed. Just because a car is not throwing any codes, dont mean its not running improperly.

Third: the VTEC stuff is beyond me so all of the above may not apply. I'd search some forums for a good tuner. Someone who knows what changes need to be made for CAI, and other free-flowing mods.

Please do research before trying the following.
You could reset the ECU. Many ECU are "learning" units, yea they only "learn" within a set of parameters, but it is something. If you have a coded radio make sure you have the code!!!! Take off the negative and then positive battery cables. This is where i cant help much more, but on my old Mitsu you touched the positive and negative cable together and held for a few seconds. On my subie, you press and hold the brake pedal.

This clears all the info stored in the ECU, and you start from scratch. Problems following this can include:
1)Even worse performance as many ECU reset to a very conservative setting (fuel and timing mapping), until it "learns" your driving habits.
2)Failed emissions test if you dont get a week or two of driving on it.
3)Youve done all that, and nothing happens.

You best bet for best results see a good reputable tuner.

cold air intake also allow dust or oil to get on the hot wire element of the airflow meter, whatever honda calls it that meters the flow of air through the intake. this can EASILY, cause a rich running condition.


my problem with that diagnosis is, that the vtec design uses oil "hydraulic" to turn on and off the Vtec solenoid. have you checked your oil ?

tell me what the codes are they got. the codes should start with a "P"

that car is a simple design to an up to date master tech, it shouldn't be hard to figure out with the right person.

are you around here? I can refer you.

[Gawain 0]

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Ok well I don't know if this is good or bad.

Word back from Honda is this. The timing is where it is supposed to be, the valves are fine, but the cold air intake I have is causing the engine to run rich which causes the vtec to kick in late and that is causing the ticking.

I tried to get it through to them that it's never done this and I've had the cold air intake pretty much since I got the car. I was told only way to get it to not run rich is to put the stock air filter back in. Seriously????
Cold air gives more power and better gas mileage, it's not the problem. I'm being told the timing is right.
I asked if it was a spark plug issue, got no you would have other issues, and we didn't get any codes for that.

I'm so frustrated. I'm glad they seem to think nothing is wrong, but then I'm not glad because I know something is wrong!!!!

Damnit!!!!!!!!

Take it to another dealer. I had an Acura Integra GSI with an AEM cold air and the thing howled. There has to be another reason. The 2000 Civic Si isn't an i-VTEC IIRC, so the timing is mechanical.

So I try and I scream and I beg and I sigh
Just to prove I'm alive, and it's alright
'Cause tonight there's a way I'll make light of my treacherous life
Make light!

[simplyputsi 0]

I don't think it's the airflow meter. I can't stress enough that the car ran just fine for over 6 years with the AEM Cold air intake on it. Never heard the ticking I hear now, and never have had such loss of power.
The oil was changed today, it didn't help with the ticking, or the vtec timing. And I hit it in 4th on 75 south and nothing pretty much. It's the timing, it's the timing, it's the timing. I'm betting those fuckers never even checked it again. Why do I say that, because they didn't charge me and well for the oil change I brought them 4 quarts and they didn't even put all 4 in. They gave me on back with about 1/4 a quart left. Ummm it actually takes like 4.25 quarts you dumassesssssss.

Last time they put 5 in it because "it took it". Nice.
I am taking it to another place I already spoke with today and they agreed it's probably not the air filter, but they are familiar with them because they sell and install such items so they have experience. A friend recommended them to me.

Anyway, I don't have time for it this week, and the car runs, just not great. Honda seems to think nothing is wrong so I don't think driving it is hurting anything.

I'll let everyone know what I get back. I'm giving honda my 2 cents tomorrow, as I'm just not satisified with their work today, specially the oil change.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

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I will guess it is something with the fail safe system not allowing the vtec solenoid to kick in.

but that doesn't say much.

I got friends in the ATL area that are honda master tech's.

plus like I said before, it is a simple system to someone who knows it.

good luck.

what are the p codes they pulled? are there any?

[simplyputsi 0]

I don't think they gave me the p codes. The other day when the light was on it gave an oxygen sensor / gas cap code. I had just gotten gas a little before it came on. So I left it and a few days later it went off.

They said the codes they pulled said only that the engine was running rich. Which the place I talked to said that could be a timing issue.

Seems to me that if the air filter has been there for years and only after the timing was changed did I start to have problems that maybe just maybe the timing is to blame.
If the place I go can't help I'll ask you for your peeps, but really the friend of mine that recommended it is pretty good at recommendations. He's jewish

Skymama's #2 stalker -

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I have a hard time beliving it is the timing.

it is hard to say without looking at it.

but the car is being told to do what it is doing, it is the WHY it is being told that is where you will find the problem.


you would be very surprised at the shit that goes on the the little brain the car has.

I am willing to bet that the vtec is not coming on, and there is a reason for it. but why is it being told to not come on? that is what my question is...

but hey, like I said. it is hard to tell without looking at it...

I can guarantee 100% that I could figure it out if I had the car and the time. but I have neither right now.

[DeNReN 0]

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Had timing belt package done about 6 months ago. This changes the timing belt, as well as all other belts in the engine.

6 months ago?

You wait 6 months after a repair.....and poof......"it worked great before the timing belt was done"

put yourself in the shops shoes.......who in their right mind pays to have something done....then puts up with a half-assed job for 6 freaking months before coming back with a compliant?????

only idiots and scammers.




edited to add:cause I feel like a jerk ....if the car truely did feel down in power eversence the timing belt was done....the only way to verify proper valve timing is to remove the covers and check...serial data from a scan tool can be used to diagnose a shitload of things...but base engine and battery are still the heart...take the covers off and confirm proper valve timing.

[simplyputsi 0]

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Had timing belt package done about 6 months ago. This changes the timing belt, as well as all other belts in the engine.

6 months ago?

You wait 6 months after a repair.....and poof......"it worked great before the timing belt was done"

put yourself in the shops shoes.......who in their right mind pays to have something done....then puts up with a half-assed job for 6 freaking months before coming back with a compliant?????

only idiots and scammers.




edited to add:cause I feel like a jerk ....if the car truely did feel down in power eversence the timing belt was done....the only way to verify proper valve timing is to remove the covers and check...serial data from a scan tool can be used to diagnose a shitload of things...but base engine and battery are still the heart...take the covers off and confirm proper valve timing.

you're not an ass, I have been super busy for the past 6 months and just thought because my car was getting older it just didn't have the power. I let a few friends finally get a listen and that is when I finally took the intitiative to take it back. It's my fault, and I would have paid them to fix whatever, but they immediately start blaming my after market air filter which has been on there for 6 years or so and that pisses me off.

I honestly thought it was more like 3 months. They said they took the valve covers off and verified the timing was correct. That is what they say anyway. I'm taking it to another shop. Second opinion I believe will solve this problem.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[simplyputsi 0]

Ok so I finally got ahold of the service manager.

He has convinced me to bring my car back and he'll do a few tests, free of charge, and have the tech ride along with me again so I can show him and have him listen again as to what is going on.

I just don't know if it's even worth taking back to them. I almost want to say you had your chance, but i really do think having a dealer look at it is better as that is all they do you know.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

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just go back and don't leave till they see and acknowledge the problem.

there IS a tech there that can fix it.

we are expensive, but each dealer has one or two, sometimes three or four if they got the money and the buissness.

[simplyputsi 0]

Ok so here is the final skinny I have on the situation.

It was NOT the timing, although I had fair reason to believe it was.
After a quick test drive with another mechanic, who owns a 99 civic si, he was like whoa!! He immediately said maybe it is your catalytic converter, which I had as a suspect if it was not the timing.

I leave it, about an hour later, yup, it is the cat converter. Here is the kicker though. OEM is 900 for part and like 100 for labor. I was like ummmmm no. So I settled for aftermarket for half price, only after calling the aftermarket company and getting the skinny on their products.

Car is hauling ass, and actually what gets me is it has not run this way in a long long time. So I'm trying to get the tech on the phone to discuss why that is so. We are talking like years that it has not run this good.

Skymama's #2 stalker -

[yardhippie 0]

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Ok so here is the final skinny I have on the situation.

It was NOT the timing, although I had fair reason to believe it was.
After a quick test drive with another mechanic, who owns a 99 civic si, he was like whoa!! He immediately said maybe it is your catalytic converter, which I had as a suspect if it was not the timing.

I leave it, about an hour later, yup, it is the cat converter. Here is the kicker though. OEM is 900 for part and like 100 for labor. I was like ummmmm no. So I settled for aftermarket for half price, only after calling the aftermarket company and getting the skinny on their products.

Car is hauling ass, and actually what gets me is it has not run this way in a long long time. So I'm trying to get the tech on the phone to discuss why that is so. We are talking like years that it has not run this good.

Over time the catalyst (it looks like a mesh screen) get residue build up. This blocks the flow of exhaust, causing the engine to work harder to push it out, robbing your valuble HP.
why you noticed it all of a sudden is still a mystery.

Good call on the aftermarket, its not like Honda makes those cats. Why pay the mark-up? I bought a custom fit unit from autozone for the wife's car for $187 a few weeks ago. I only wish that would have fixed our problem.

Goddam dirty hippies piss me off! ~GFD
"What do I get for closing your rig?" ~ me
"Anything you want." ~ female skydiver
Mohoso Rodriguez #865

[simplyputsi 0]

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[why you noticed it all of a sudden is still a mystery.

That is my question for the tech. Because like I said my car has not run this well in a long time, so it could be possible the cat was bad/going bad a long time ago and I chalked it up to an old car. Only when it seriously took all my power and started making the ticking noise did I say ok something is not right.

Bonus, I think, my cold air filter no longer screams when I hit the vtec. But I wonder why???

Skymama's #2 stalker -

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suck,squeeze,bang,blow.

if any one of those is restricted it will drasticlly change the way it sounds and runs.

glad you got it fixed.