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McDuck

Life in Japan

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Has anyone here lived as a non-military person in Japan? I'm contemplating a move in the next several years, and there are some good jobs open to me over in mainland Japan and Okinawa. I know just enough Japanese at this point to politely ask if someone speaks English and to say that I only speak a little Japanese. :)
I'm more than a little curious to hear about the experiences of people who have lived and worked in Japan. One of my life's goals is to live and work abroad for 5-10 years. I mean, what better way to learn, understand and share the world around you than to immerse yourself in cultures other than your own?
Kevin - Sonic Beef #5 - OrFun #28
"I never take myself too seriously, 'cuz everybody know fat birds don't fly." - FLC
Online communities: proof that people never mature much past high school.

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I lived there for a relatively short 6 months working as a co-op student.

I worked in a corporate research center just south of Tokyo.

It was a very interesting experience and I learned a lot about myself and the Japanese culture while I was there. I learned the language before I went over but haven't used it in several years and I am very rusty...

I believe johnsw71 worked/lived in japan for several years and may be a good resource as well.
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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sorry i am military but i was on the rock (okinawa) for a while.... i can tell you that most of the locals either speak or understand english but the whole island smells like ass.... don't buy any of the girls at the bar drinks... and stay closer to the north shore.... it's more traditional there

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Anyone have any insights into the cost of living differences between Tokyo, Yokohama (and outlying areas of both) and Okinawa? The horror stories I've heard makes me think I'll be living in a closet in Tokyo for about the same price as my house payment now.

I plan on continuing my language studies so that I can communicate more effectively in the Japanese language before I go, but it is nice to know that I can fall back on my limited English skills in Tokyo and Okinawa.
Kevin - Sonic Beef #5 - OrFun #28
"I never take myself too seriously, 'cuz everybody know fat birds don't fly." - FLC
Online communities: proof that people never mature much past high school.

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Anyone have any insights into the cost of living differences between Tokyo, Yokohama (and outlying areas of both) and Okinawa? The horror stories I've heard makes me think I'll be living in a closet in Tokyo for about the same price as my house payment now.

Unfortunately I can't exactly answer this question.

Since I was over in Japan on a work visa the company was required to cover my housing costs. (i.e. I lived in company dorms) they also covered my transportation costs to and from work.

My room wasn't much bigger then a large walk-in closet here in the states but it was more then enough room for me considering I knew I was going to have to take everything I owned back home with me in two bags... (though I did ship some stuff back to the states...)
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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Send a PM to johnsw71. He lived there for quite a while (5+ years, I think).
"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke

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Learning Japanese will help them understand YOU but you won't understand them! Classes teach us a polite japanese that sounds nice to them but they will respond in conversational japanese with totally different verb structure!

Remember....if they want to communicate with you, words don't matter! Some of my most difficult conversations were not due to language problems but that the other didn't want or know how to make himself clear....

There are a couple books about street signs and food labels etc. Learn to READ the signs, its a better use of your time until you get there.

Stay out of the big cities except Kyoto. Nagasaki is cool. Forget about Tokyo/Yokohama for now. Okinawa is more american than japanese these days.

Teach English. Charge a minimum of 10,000 yen (ichi-man en) for individual or small group for an hour and half class (1-4 people can pitch in to pay you).

Walk in the mountains. Live in a mountain or seaside town you will be forced to learn to speak and understand quickly. Visit every temple festival day happening near where you will be. That is the real Japan and people are at their best. Eat every kind of festival munchies they sell. I love takoyaki and okonomiyaki!

I got out of the big city and walked a 1200 year old buddhist pilgrimage path. It was 900 miles in a circle and took me 7 weeks. I met people who had only seen foreigners on TV and they treated me great!

Kyoto is less crazy than Tokyo, easier to get around, can walk out your door and up into the hills and down to dozens of historic temples. Excellent foreign community very organized and helpful Check out KANSAI TIME OUT magazine from Osaka/Kyoto. It will tell you what's happening and has classifieds for places to stay etc.
I suggest going to Kyoto first and look for the gaijin hangouts, they will help you get going. Kyoto Visitors Center is right by the main train station, extremely helpful.

A Japan Rail Pass for two weeks will get you everywhere. Don't waste it by travelling to nearby places. Use it to go all the way north by bullet train to Hokkaido, then all the way south to Nagasaki and back. You can take side trains, buses, and ferryboats for side trips all included in railpass!
Nagasaki is very cool....kind of a san francisco of japan. A ferry boat ride out of Hiroshima to Miyajima Island, stay there one nite.

Near Kyoto is Nara, very historic and a mellower place to live. Home of the Big Buddha. I love it there! Sunset over Nara seen from the balcony of Nigatsu-do Temple above Todaiji Big Buddha Temple. Koyasan south of Osaka is a center for mountain meditation masters. etc etc.

O Dai ji ni! Gambate! Have fun!
marc

"The reason angels can fly is that they take themselves so lightly." --GK Chesterton

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Thanks for the info, Marc! Based on the available jobs at this time, my choices are limited to Okinawa, Atsugi, Iwaluni, Misawa, Sasebo, Yokosuka, Yokoto, or Zukeran. I may hold out for a while to see if anything opens up elsewhere. Any thoughts on these locations?
Kevin - Sonic Beef #5 - OrFun #28
"I never take myself too seriously, 'cuz everybody know fat birds don't fly." - FLC
Online communities: proof that people never mature much past high school.

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I will be going to Atsugi for three months starting in a few weeks. a co-worker warned me that if they try to get you to eat something, make sure they eat it first. He says that they will try to get you to eat some nasty shit. Are you jumping while you are there?

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I don't understand Japanese culture that well, and I probably never will! However, as far as language, I've had pretty good luck with the Pimsleur Comprehensive series. It will teach you everything you need to know for about a 15-minute conversation about polite topics, such as the weather :D If you want to discuss religion and politics, it's probably best to live there ...

Trapped on the surface of a sphere. XKCD

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Hi Kevin,
I lived in Japan for five years -- all non-military. I lived in Nagoya for one year and on Kyushu for four years. I'd never rush to get back to Nagoya, but I'd go back to Kyushu (well, for a visit at least) in a heartbeat. I'd agree to stay away from the big cities if you can, especially if you're looking to immerse yourself. Did you say what you'd be doing? It looks like all of your choices are near military bases, so I'm guessing it's something related?
You'll find the more rural areas much more affodable than Tokyo. In Kyushu, I was paying about $450/month for a two-room + kitchen apartment. (Keep in mind that the standard size room in Japan is 6-jo (= six tatami mats) and is no bigger than 15' x 15' if that.) You'd probably pay 3-4x that price in Tokyo. (This was in 2002.)
The hardest part about moving to Japan is getting a job, but it sounds like you have that taken care of. The second hardest part is trying to learn Japanese. In a big city, you'll find it hard to use Japanese if you don't already speak it, and hard to learn to speak it if nobody will use it with you. I'd recommend trying to get as much of a foundation as you can before you go. The more Japanese you can speak, the richer your experience will be. Once you obtain a certain level, you will suddenly see and hear things that just are not visible to those who don't speak Japanese.
I could go on for pages, but I'll stop here for now. If you want some more specific advice, you're welcome to PM me. BTW, I like Marc's response as well -- very good advice.

John

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one less obvious bit of advice.. if you are over 6 ft tall.. get a pair of clear sunglasses for when it rains.. i almost lost a eye (2 close calls 1 nasty scratch till i got a pair) to an umbrella tine..
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Those who fail to learn from the past are simply Doomed.

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Hey Duck,

I haven't lived there as an adult, but did live in Okinawa for close to 5 years throughout JHS / HS.

If I had the chance (cost of living / environment), I'd choose Okinawa over Mainland. I went to HS near Zukeran - very friendly people. It's been so long since I've been there - most who've been back say I wouldn't recognize it - guess it's developed into a small city. The good thing though, beaches are always a hop skip and jump away. The coral reefs are amazing! The people there are amazing!!!

g
"Let's do something romantic this Saturday... how bout we bust out the restraints?"
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one less obvious bit of advice.. if you are over 6 ft tall.. get a pair of clear sunglasses for when it rains.. i almost lost a eye (2 close calls 1 nasty scratch till i got a pair) to an umbrella tine..

Damn... that's funny... :D:D
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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