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jumper03

binding corners........on a double needle.

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On a single needle machine corners are straight forward - needle down, foot up, pivot the material go.

There's a double needle consew with a binding attachment that works great until you get to a corner....

am I being dense and missing something obvious or is there no easy way to do this?
Scars remind us that the past is real

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On a single needle machine corners are straight forward - needle down, foot up, pivot the material go.

There's a double needle consew with a binding attachment that works great until you get to a corner....

am I being dense and missing something obvious or is there no easy way to do this?



Hi,
Do you have a chance to go to a rigging loft that has double needle machines with binding attachment?
Well, try to find one. Binding is all about practice.
I'm pretty sure will hear all kind of techniques here, but I suggest to you personally watch how is done!

Actually, try to spend some time on a rigging loft to learn not only binding techniques. There are a lot of more stuff to learn that it will make you feel good about it.
I hope this helps!
Cheers,
Gus Marinho

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On a single needle machine corners are straight forward - needle down, foot up, pivot the material go.

There's a double needle consew with a binding attachment that works great until you get to a corner....

am I being dense and missing something obvious or is there no easy way to do this?



Hi,
Do you have a chance to go to a rigging loft that has double needle machines with binding attachment?
Well, try to find one. Binding is all about practice.
I'm pretty sure will hear all kind of techniques here, but I suggest to you personally watch how is done!

Actually, try to spend some time on a rigging loft to learn not only binding techniques. There are a lot of more stuff to learn that it will make you feel good about it.
I hope this helps!
Cheers,



I'm actually using a double needle machine with a binding attachment. My question is how do I pivot the material to get around the corner when I have two needles in the fabric as opposed to one.

The only thing I've figured so far is to raise the needles out of the fabric, raise the foot, twist and then go. I don't really like the way that works and it looks bad, but I don't see another way to do it.
Scars remind us that the past is real

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I'm actually using a double needle machine with a binding attachment. My question is how do I pivot the material to get around the corner when I have two needles in the fabric as opposed to one.


The needles actually are all the way up out of the fabric!

Quote

The only thing I've figured so far is to raise the needles out of the fabric, raise the foot, twist and then go. I don't really like the way that works and it looks bad, but I don't see another way to do it.


Here we go, good job! You just said how is done!
Now, if you were in our shop, I'd put you make some BOC pouchs!;)
Gus Marinho

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Make your last stitch as close as possible to the edge/corner of the fabric. Raise the needles to top dead center - or slightly past, depending upon the machine - to create a bit of slack in the thread.
Stick a Cypres screwdriver or similar dull pointy tool where you want the corner to be. Press your tool down - against the machine - to lock the tape in place while you turn the fabric.
If you hold the tool at an exact 45 degree angle, it will fold the underside of the tape for you.
Wiggle the fabric into the tape (and folder).
Remover tool from underside and use it to adjust the tap fold on the top.
Lower presser foot.
Make next stitch as close as possible to folded edge.
Continue sewing.
If this sounds complicated ... it is.
Plan to do dozens of practice corners before you get any good at taping corners.

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On a single needle machine corners are straight forward - needle down, foot up, pivot the material go.



I am practicing the same as you. Pain the the @$$, but I'll get there...

I now understand why they also sell double needle machines where you can raise one needle independent of the other...

I just don't have the dough...

Good luck,
Jim
Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

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Hi jumper03,

All good advice so far; you must simply spend a lot of time on trial & error. It will come to you.

However, you will never be as good as the little ladies that do it all day long; it is a male-only type of handicap. Learn to live with that.

Jerry

PS) If you want to see REALLY good corners, go buy a cheap fabric wallet made in the far east; those gals make any American look sloppy.

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This is one skill I had to learn out at handsome Dave's before I was ready to take my master test. It was frustrating watch Dave and Rags do it and then trying it. But it really only took about 10 corners until I had it down (to American male standards;)) See description above.^

I made a tool to use before I went out. I cut the smallest diameter at the tip of a dental pick and rounded and smoothed the end. This worked great for working the tape.
I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

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Steve,
Remember this also.
There are basically two types of binders and each has it's own quirks.
The right angle binder and the"straight" binder that Para-Gear sells. That one is actually a little offset to the right.
The straight one is harder to sew thicker material with.

The right angle one is a bit harder to turn the corners evenly with, but after awhile, it is no problem.

PS. Did you get the single needle machine fixed?


MEL
Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC
www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

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Riggerrob desrcibes it perfectly! Go to Home Depot and ask for a metal scribe used to mark sheet metal cutting lines. It will have a 90 degree angle pick at one end and a straight pick at the other. It makes it easy to pull the fold in the tape tight before lowering the presser foot.

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Make your last stitch as close as possible to the edge/corner of the fabric. Raise the needles to top dead center - or slightly past, depending upon the machine - to create a bit of slack in the thread.
Stick a Cypres screwdriver or similar dull pointy tool where you want the corner to be. Press your tool down - against the machine - to lock the tape in place while you turn the fabric.
If you hold the tool at an exact 45 degree angle, it will fold the underside of the tape for you.
Wiggle the fabric into the tape (and folder).
Remover tool from underside and use it to adjust the tap fold on the top.
Lower presser foot.
Make next stitch as close as possible to folded edge.
Continue sewing.
If this sounds complicated ... it is.
Plan to do dozens of practice corners before you get any good at taping corners.



Excellent post!! That's pretty much all the instructions.
Just one more thing, binding is not only about corners! A bad binding work can make things look really ugly and brake apart!
Things to learn about binding:
-Both needles catching fabric!
-Right tension!
-Right number of stitches per inch!
-Learn both ways to remove binding:
a) With hot knife
b) With seam ripper
-Learn to use/order the right tape:
Here is the specs that I use - tape type III, 3/4" "R" nylon tape MIL-T-5038H
- And finally, as I said before, watch people binding stuff.
My personnal opinion, corners are the easiest! Practice making some small bags that need corners. Make bags to put your rigging tools on it! Logbook covers are also a great training!
-----------------------------------------------------------
Hey Jerry, are you ready for some moon shine???:S:S
Cheers,
Gus Marinho

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[reply

Things to learn about binding:

-Learn both ways to remove binding:
a) With hot knife



OK... you' got some 'splainin' to do...
I've seen confluence wraps removed with razerblades, but not binding tape with a hot knife... please 'splain...

J~
Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

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You got the answer from Mark!!! You use hot knife when you don't need the old binding tape!
Seam ripper - Unpick the first 3 stitches and then every other 3 to 4 on the direction you are going to remove the binding. Then just pull the opposite side thread. This method is for keeping the old binding!
Cheers,
Gus Marinho

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I have both types of binders in my shop.
My Para-Gear type folder is adjusted for binding light-weight nylon, like deployment bags.
My (US$350) thick folder - from Atlanta Attachments - is adjusted to bind thick stuff, like container stiffeners.

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Removing binding tape using a hot knife:

This method destroys the tape.

Use the flat side of the blade to sear the threads on one side of the folded tape. Pull the threads on the opposite side.

Mark



Mark,

Thanks! Had always simply picked them out without thinking whether to reuse or not (duh..).

Jim
Always remember that some clouds are harder than others...

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