How long do lines last?

[Chizazz 0]

I'm looking at a Stiletto 170 for sale w/ 500 jumps. It still has the original line set. How long does a line set usually last before needing a re-line?

[Chizazz 0]

Nevermind, I found it.

[Eagleeye 0]

Now you got my mind going. Post the info or answer that you found, so then I will know the answer.Thanks

[johnny1488 1]

I know of one manufacturer that said any line one inch out of spec called for a line set.

On some line sets I have seen this happen in 100 jumps. Most would jump them for about 5-600.

Johnny
--"This ain't no book club, we're all gonna die!"
Mike Rome

[DrewEckhardt 0]

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I know of one manufacturer that said any line one inch out of spec called for a line set.

On some line sets I have seen this happen in 100 jumps. Most would jump them for about 5-600.

I checked my Stiletto 120 trim after 600 jumps (brake toggle lines replaced every 200 jumps, and lower steering lines after 500 or so). The outboard lines had shrunk up to 5-6", center cell A lines about 1.5".

[darkwing 4]

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I know of one manufacturer that said any line one inch out of spec called for a line set.

Yikes, couldn't have been spectra, as that would require a reline every hundred jumps!

-- Jeff
My Skydiving History

[johnny1488 1]

It was spectra.

That's why I never thought it was an acceptable line for canopies. No one I know follows the manufacturers tolerances. You would need a line set every few weekends.

Johnny
--"This ain't no book club, we're all gonna die!"
Mike Rome

[riggermick 6]

Quote

Quote

I know of one manufacturer that said any line one inch out of spec called for a line set.

On some line sets I have seen this happen in 100 jumps. Most would jump them for about 5-600.

I checked my Stiletto 120 trim after 600 jumps (brake toggle lines replaced every 200 jumps, and lower steering lines after 500 or so). The outboard lines had shrunk up to 5-6", center cell A lines about 1.5".

Even though some lower control lines are multi- part systems aren't lower steering lines and brake and toggle lines one and the same?. By this I mean that if you are going replace the section of line between the brake loop and the toggle why would you not replace the section of control line between that loop and the cascade point? It too has stretched, become worn (mainly from passing through the guide ring) and is "out of spec" from factory new and can cause you just as much greif as the section below it. Either way a broken control line can ruin your day.

Mick.

[riggerrob 558]

That Stiletto - with 500 jumps - is probably due for reline.
Top pond swooping competitors sometimes reline after only 200 jumps,
Strong Enterprises recommends relining (Spectra) tandems after 300 or 350. I know from personal experience that if you let them go 450, they open slowly and don't have much flare power.
I have seen F-111 Mantas with 2,000 jumps on the same Dacron line set. They take forever to open and flare like bag locks!

[DrewEckhardt 0]

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By this I mean that if you are going replace the section of line between the brake loop and the toggle why would you not replace the section of control line between that loop and the cascade point?

Because when I told my rigger that my steering lines and shrunk and were fuzzier than I liked (on the toggle side, which seems a natural side effect of velcro toggles) he replaced the brake toggle lines. He moved and the next rigger did the same thing.

After the last bout of shrinkage, I figured that the 7' of lower steering line being pulled against the slider grommets and cooked as it came down on every opening HAD to be shrinking even more than the 1.5' of brake toggle line and had rigger #3 replace the whole enchillada. A trim sheet was not involved.

I don't know any one as meticulous as rigger one . Rigger two was a full-time professional who'd been in the bussiness long enough to turn grey. Rigger three was also more than competant. My take-away from that is that skydivers need to take responsibility for their own gear maintenance.

Having finally thought about the problem after (mumble) years, it seems like the correct thing to do might be to take the current length of the rearmost outboard line (C on the Stiletto), knock off the original delta between that and the lower steering line, and perhaps some fraction of the upper steering line shrinkage to arrive at something plausible. The brake toggle line should probably start at its original length. Stretched before being cut.

What do you think?

[riggerrob 558]

Far simpler to just read the Stiletto trim chart, available on Performance Designs' website.
When you make new steering lines, just compare their length with the center A lines.

[DrewEckhardt 0]

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Far simpler to just read the Stiletto trim chart, available on Performance Designs' website.
When you make new steering lines, just compare their length with the center A lines.

I've read the trim chart.

The difference between in-board A and outboard shrinkage is 4".

Is it better to have a shallower brake setting (by up to 4") or one that may be somewhat deep? Really deep from a lot of shrinkage (didn't measure the old line against the trim sheet) seemed to cause more squirlyness on openings.

[riggermick 6]

Having finally thought about the problem after (mumble) years, it seems like the correct thing to do might be to take the current length of the rearmost outboard line (C on the Stiletto), knock off the original delta between that and the lower steering line, and perhaps some fraction of the upper steering line shrinkage to arrive at something plausible. The brake toggle line should probably start at its original length. Stretched before being cut.

What do you think?