Another Mechanical problem a real one this time

[Nataly 38]

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No Check Engine Lights??
Not Overheating??

Does it run smooth otherwise? (No Skipping or misfiring?)

Possible bad Fuel or Clogged Fuel Filter like Jan suggested.

Other Possibilities are Electrical Problem such as a Battery with a Bad cell or Weak Battery, Bad Sensor somewhere or faulty wiring.

Have to agree.. Unlikely to be belt tension on alternator (or otherwise faulty alternator) because your car would mostly be running on your battery, which would quickly kill it. Sounds like your battery is (mostly) holding it's charge (because you can start the car - which is what takes the most energy). You may need to simply top up one (or more) of the cells in your battery, or indeed replace it.

Do you have a multimeter? Check for electrical leaks.. A Haynes manual should tell you what connections are what.

If you *do* replace the battery and the problem persists, make sure the battery has some kind of replacement warrantee.. That way if whatever your problem is kills the new battery, just act dumb, bring it back and say it doesn't work & you need it replaced as per the warrantee. You won't have solved your problem, but you'll still have a brand-new battery that works!

"There is no problem so bad you can't make it worse."
- Chris Hadfield
« Sors le martinet et flagelle toi indigne contrôleuse de gestion. »
- my boss

[Squeak 17]

Mechanically inclined dude said could be the TPS or the XYZ or some other sesame street song

WTF is a TPS..Throttle something switch (sensor) .

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[sundevil777 93]

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Sounds electrical to me. Possibly a relay going bad.

Relay overheats,loses connection,everything quits. Pull over,cools off,reenergize,everything works.

I would look at the ignition relay.

I second that diagnosis.

Exactly the same sort of symptoms were common with really old Civics, including mine. The factory service center knew exactly what it was when I described it. Large relay, very cheap.

People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

[Squeak 17]

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Sounds electrical to me. Possibly a relay going bad.

Relay overheats,loses connection,everything quits. Pull over,cools off,reenergize,everything works.

I would look at the ignition relay.

I second that diagnosis.

Exactly the same sort of symptoms were common with really old Civics, including mine. The factory service center knew exactly what it was when I described it. Large relay, very cheap.

So without having a replacement for every relay how do i check this?

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[wolfriverjoe 1,340]

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Mechanically inclined dude said could be the TPS or the XYZ or some other sesame street song

WTF is a TPS..Throttle something switch (sensor) .

Throttle Position Sensor. Tells the brain box how hard your foot is pressing.
I wouldn't think that would shut everything down though (I could be wrong).

I'm inclined to agree with the main ignition relay going bad.

Another possibility is "something" drawing way more current than it should (possibly an intermittent dead short). Some cars have self-resetting circuit breakers.

The short would overload and trip the breaker, as soon as it cools and resets, it would restart.
A loose wire touching the wrong place or a spot of worn out insulation on a "hot" wire could be the culprit.

Just a couple guesses to make your life more complicated

"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

[upndownshop 0]

Not sure about your car, but one use to be able to loosen the positive cable on the battery and start the car. Once started remove the positive cable, if it keeps running then this would indicate the alternator was good, and most likely the battery would be the problem. Not sure if that would be applicable with yours.

good luck

[wolfriverjoe 1,340]

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Not sure about your car, but one use to be able to loosen the positive cable on the battery and start the car. Once started remove the positive cable, if it keeps running then this would indicate the alternator was good, and most likely the battery would be the problem. Not sure if that would be applicable with yours.

good luck

I wouldn't try this. Many modern cars need the battery hooked up to complete the circuit. Unhook the battery and the entire electrical system quits.

As another thought -

Squeak - Are the battery connections tight (and clean)? I had a loose battery cable (the clamp had cracked) that acted quite a bit like your description of the problem.

"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

[warpedskydiver 0]

It is all due to a loose nut behind the steering wheel.

[Squeak 17]

That's two pointless inputs you've contributed, got nothing better to do... Run out of bullets did you? Nothing to shoot at?
Try reading a book, an educational would be my suggestion, perhaps on counting

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[warpedskydiver 0]

No, just after the last thread I now know that you won't take any good advice.

My brother ran a Mitsubishi Dealership for well over 15 years, it was # 1 in the world.

I could ask him what the problem is and he would know, but you would not listen so it would be a waste.

If you can't take the last statement as a joke you need to get a grip. (loose nut)

[warpedskydiver 0]

I wish I had half the education you think you do.

[Squeak 17]

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I wish I had half the education you think you do.

So do I

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Squeak 17]

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No, just after the last thread I now know that you won't take any good advice.

Along with your counting your reading skills could also do with some improving

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[cocheese 0]

It's a bad coil.

[upndownshop 0]

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Not sure about your car, but one use to be able to loosen the positive cable on the battery and start the car. Once started remove the positive cable, if it keeps running then this would indicate the alternator was good, and most likely the battery would be the problem. Not sure if that would be applicable with yours.

good luck

I wouldn't try this. Many modern cars need the battery hooked up to complete the circuit. Unhook the battery and the entire electrical system quits.

As another thought -

Squeak - Are the battery connections tight (and clean)? I had a loose battery cable (the clamp had cracked) that acted quite a bit like your description of the problem.

Yeah, we did that with cars in the 80's and I know that it is not suggested with newer ones, was thinking up to early 90's was still ok. So thanks for the correction.

And you may be correct with cleaning the cable ends. It sounds electrical to me at least with my outdated automotive education. LOL

[warpedskydiver 0]

Your lack of perception and judgment of others intellect knows no bounds.

[Squeak 17]

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Your lack of perception and judgment of others intellect knows no bounds.

oo you found a thesaurus or did someone else type that for you

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Squeak 17]

apparently the the EFI computer is TOAST

Hope they are not much to replace 2nd hand,

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[piisfish 135]

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apparently the the EFI computer is TOAST

Electro-Fucking-Interruptor ?

scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM

[Squeak 17]

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apparently the the EFI computer is TOAST

Electro-Fucking-Interruptor ?

Pretty much, this sort of shite never happens with Carbies, and points ignition

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[DeNReN 0]

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apparently the the EFI computer is TOAST

Hope they are not much to replace 2nd hand,

interesting

I'd love to know the diagnostic flow that was used to come to that...but I'll prob never see a car like yours so it dosent really matter...

did the tech say what was wrong with it or that replacing it was the next step in the flow chart?

[Squeak 17]

Going to cost about $750 to fix to replace the ECU.
Sucky but way cheaper than another car

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Squeak 17]

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apparently the the EFI computer is TOAST

Hope they are not much to replace 2nd hand,

interesting

I'd love to know the diagnostic flow that was used to come to that...but I'll prob never see a car like yours so it dosent really matter...

did the tech say what was wrong with it or that replacing it was the next step in the flow chart?

The mechanic said the Electro dude, did a series of test, and heard the ECU cut out each time.
he said they've checked the TPS, and TCU and some other sesame street stuff

I also asked him while he has it up on the lift to get the Muffler bolts off so when the new one comes in i can just replace it.

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[freethefly 6]

These are in Sydney. $175.00
http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/f-magna-ecu-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-W0QQCatIdZ9299QQKeywordZmagnaQ20ecuQQisSearchFormZtrue

"...And once you're gone, you can't come back
When you're out of the blue and into the black."
Neil Young

[DeNReN 0]

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The mechanic said the Electro dude, did a series of test, and heard the ECU cut out each time.
he said they've checked the TPS, and TCU and some other sesame street stuff

heard the ECU??? while I am not familiar with your car...I have never heard a solid state devise make a noise besides a distinctive electrical shorting noise usually followed by a big puff of smoke....ending the life of the unit instantly.

ECU's can and are used to drive the control circuit of a relay which can be heard as it is or can be a electromechanical switch....

What diagnostic time are you being billed?

I have replaced a shitload of ECU's on north american vehicles...but very few on asian vehicles ( work split 60/40 n/a to asian)

if you can...get the old ecu back and open it up...see if you can spot obvious signs of failure...breaks in the printed circuit, burn marks, corrosion....or things that just went poof!!!!


Edited to add: forgot where I was going...a mechanical device or a electromechanical device is more common to fail then a solid state device.

I have replaced way more relays then ECU's !!!!!