Mechanic types

[Squeak 17]

I need to change out the muffler on my TS Magna (Diamante), but the muffler to exhaust bolts are rusted solid, i have sprayed them with inox but they are still fixed tight.
Any NONDESTRUCTIVE ideas on how to get them off?

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[muff528 3]

Up here it's "lefty loosey, righty tighty". Maybe it's the other way 'round d'nunder.

[Squeak 17]

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Up here it's "lefty loosey, righty tighty". Maybe it's the other way 'round d'nunder.

Thanks for being no help what so ever, and that ditty does not hold true to GAS

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[Harmless 0]

heat sometimes works... with a blow torch, but more often than not those bolts are going to break. Drill em out and replace with new nuts and bolts.

"Damn you Gravity, you win again"

[skyrider 0]

Likely ads not, Time to buy a drimel, and cut them puppies off , it will do less damage than a torch......., or spend 6 months daily soaking them with penitrating oil, Then cut them off, because they still won't turn!

IF you can get a good grip on them, Twist them puppies in two...they will break after about a 1/4 turn!

[muff528 3]

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Up here it's "lefty loosey, righty tighty". Maybe it's the other way 'round d'nunder.

Thanks for being no help what so ever, and that ditty does not hold true to GAS

"Whatsoever" is a single word.
BTW - I have had some luck using a battery and jumper cables. Clamp one cable to the bolt head and the other to the boss or nut for only a couple of seconds. Sometimes that will provide enough heat to the threaded area to get it to break loose. Keep your face away from the battery.

[Harmless 0]

:P I'm sure its not always the case but the majority of ones I've worked with are threaded, therefor you can break the bolts off all day long but you'r still going to be drilling them out :P

"Damn you Gravity, you win again"

[Rookie120 0]

First tools you need to do exhaust work is a cutting tool (air grinder) and a torch. Exhaust work suck and no real way to get the old rusted stuff off in 1 piece.

If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

[skyrider 0]

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First tools you need to do exhaust work is a cutting tool (air grinder) and a torch. Exhaust work suck and no real way to get the old rusted stuff off in 1 piece.

Like I said...Hiii.... HOhhh... Drimle..............and Awayyyyyyy

[LongWayToFall 0]

I have always had luck with propane torches. Try to heat the nut rather than the bolt, this makes the nut expand and loosens it.

[warpedskydiver 0]

Map gas is your friend

[skyrider 0]

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I have always had luck with propane torches. Try to heat the nut rather than the bolt, this makes the nut expand and loosens it.

on Mufflers? usually a practice in futility! JMO

[VectorBoy 0]

Kroil as a penatrating oil if you are lucky enough to get some in your area. Yes its worth the price!

Heat from a torch as others have mentioned best#2

[LongWayToFall 0]

If a torch+hammer+breaker bar or impact won't loosen a bolt, nothing will. Worth a shot at least, although chances of reusing the hardware is going to be nill.

[Squeak 17]

I'm a little reluctant to use a torch, i dont have a Lift and it will only be raised on Jack Stands, with me on a garage crawler.
So not sure i want to be in a tight situation playing with a Gas Axe

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[skyrider 0]

30 dollar drimel, cut the damn things off...problem solved!

[Squeak 17]

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30 dollar drimel, cut the damn things off...problem solved!

I have a compressor do die grinding kits have a cutting wheel? if so i can buy one of those for about $40

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[CSpenceFLY 1]

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Map gas is your friend

Kroil and Map gas torch.

[maxmadmax 8]

Open the doors and the chickens will come home to roost in it.

Those damn fastener things are always a pain in the ass to break out. Heat gets my vote.

Don't go away mad....just go away!

[keithbar 1]

like everyone has already said try heat 1st. the torch is know in mechanic circles as the " green wrench" for a good reason

i have on occasion been accused of pulling low . My response. Naw I wasn't low I'm just such a big guy I look closer than I really am .

[pontiacgtp00 0]

The easiest would just be to procrastinate until the bolts simply rust away.

[DeNReN 0]

Quote

I need to change out the muffler on my TS Magna (Diamante), but the muffler to exhaust bolts are rusted solid, i have sprayed them with inox but they are still fixed tight.
Any NONDESTRUCTIVE ideas on how to get them off?

Is this a flange to flange joint with nuts and bolts? studs and nuts?

nuts and bolts.....dont screw around, slice them off with a torch or a cut off tool.

nuts and stud....if atempting to save stud, heat and break free with a inpact tool ( pressed in studs in a pipe flange can easily be knocked out and replaced with nuts and bolts..


Edited to add: really need alot of information to give "good" internet advise

[Squeak 17]

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Is this a flange to flange joint with nuts and bolts? studs and nuts?

nuts and bolts.....dont screw around, slice them off with a torch or a cut off tool.

nuts and stud....if atempting to save stud, heat and break free with a inpact tool ( pressed in studs in a pipe flange can easily be knocked out and replaced with nuts and bolts..


Edited to add: really need alot of information to give "good" internet advise

yes it's a flange to flange, but i cant tell if it's studs or bolts, although they look to have Hex heads and nuts. 3 bolts (?) on a rounded triangular flange.
It's a '94 TS Magna (Diamante in the US) V6 3.0L 6G72 Engine

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

[lurch 0]

Whoa.
Do NOT try that!
Yes it can work but that trick is WAY more dangerous than you think, man.

THINK about it. You're running an uncontrolled and almost unlimited amperage through a dead short on heavy conductors with high likelihood of combustible shit on both ends, with wildly unpredictable surface contact areas and heat loads. You start fucking around with high energy physics under rough and ready conditions you can count on spectacular and unpredictable energy release events.

And with a hydrogen generator at one end.
If the jumper cables get bad contact to the battery you could strike an arc off the battery terminal or even inside the battery by a localized hotspot and blow the battery to chunks in a millisecond.
Ask me how I know this.
I've been around 3 that blew, one of them mine. They don't go the same way...one went gently with a dull thump and just a cracked case, one made a small cracking sound and blew one small piece off a corner plus cracking the case, and one went like a grenade with a helluva bang blowing the battery case into chunks and spraying acid everywhere, big pieces missing off it scattered around the engine compartment.
If the battery isn't heavily shielded in a vented enclosure acid will spray 20 feet in all directions and it will bounce around corners. You will get sprayed. I've seen them go violently enough to propel acid coated plastic shrapnel into you.

If the case blows bigtime, the acid will also run downhill in a big puddle. If you happen to be lying under the car and are downstream of it, the acid can soak into your clothes before you can wiggle out from under the car and find out what that bang was. Fun!

When you're doing stuff like this, you gotta look for possible disastrous chains of events.

I've done a bunch of tricks like this- once started a car with no starter solenoid by touching wrenches to starter and positive terminal, then crossing the wrenches. The wrenches welded themselves together and the visuals were spectacular, but the car started.
That was a neat hack. The wrenches welded at all 3 electrical contact points and I could have left them there, spinning the starter. Had to break the wrenches off and apart by rocking them side to side. This is the kind of stuff you only try when you're stuck on a rock 50 miles from anywhere with a blown solenoid.

I did a lot of 4x4 stuff awhile back and smashed off and rebuilt more sets of pipes on one car than most people will ever own cars. Unless you buy all stainless steel, exhaust parts are kind of considered expendables like clutch and brakes. A dremel will do it artistically but its like trying to dig a canal with a spoon. You'll go through two dozen cutting disks to cut one bolt and maybe burn out the dremel in the process. You need a sawzall bare minimum. If you attempt to reuse clamps they will fail almost immediately, within weeks or months at best. To do exhaust the right way, you need a torch and a welder anyway.

Basically the only way to do it right is cut off and replace everything with new. Anything else you do will fall apart rapidly. I've done exhaust patches every wrong way that exists and the only times it ever actually held together was buying all new stuff.
-B

Live and learn... or die, and teach by example.

[Squeak 17]

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Whoa.
Do NOT try that!
Yes it can work but that trick is WAY more dangerous than you think, man.

Don't sweat it, I had NO intentions of doing that, I may be mechanically ignorant but I'm not stupid

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?