Buying a car which of these is better to get?

[Rahtingo41 0]

Well I know this is probably a stupid decision but hey, its coming from a stupid person so between these cars (which I both took for test drives) which should I get and is it a bad idea to get the subaru because of the miles?

I just need something to get back to the dz with. My Car got totaled by a 97 year old man who shouldnt have been driving AT ALL could use some more input

2004 Hyundai Sonata, 58k miles , $6950

2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5I , 118k miles, $8000

both in great condition and I know its probably better for the hyundai but is it pointless to consider the subi? I heard from everyone they are super reliable
anyone have experience with buying vehicles over 100k?

[Rahtingo41 0]

Forgot to mention the hyundai at first was making some odd sound went away after a little while and the subaru sounded great (actually sounded the best out of the last 2 months of test driving cars) maybe you can tell I really am trying to make excuses to get that subi

[SkymonkeyONE 3]

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Forgot to mention the hyundai at first was making some odd sound went away after a little while and the subaru sounded great (actually sounded the best out of the last 2 months of test driving cars) maybe you can tell I really am trying to make excuses to get that subi

Neither! Both are way overpriced. $8000 for a used subaru with over 100,000 is just stupid

[Rahtingo41 0]

well i figured the subi is overpriced but the sonata is too? hmm that sucks

[airdvr 197]

Private owners or dealers?

Please don't dent the planet.

Destinations by Roxanne

[wmw999 2,116]

Keeping looking isn't a bad idea, but between the two I'd totally go for the Sonata. My brother (a fairly serious car guy, who keeps shop manuals in the bathroom for entertainment )said that mileage is generally the most important thing to look for in a normal-age car, because it's use that wears things out. Age wears some stuff out too (rubber stuff particularly), but at these ages that's not as much of a consideration.

If you can afford to keep looking, do so.

Wendy P.

There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown)

[davelepka 4]

It depends on what sort of driving you plan to do. If you live in the mountains or any snowy areas, the Subi has all wheel drive, which can be helpful. Only use this as a factor if you live or dirve in snowy areas with hills and poor snow removal. I live in a snowy area in Ohio, but because I live in the city with good snow removal, I only drive in deep snow a couple times per year.

Also, think about the milage and operating costs. Which will cost more gor gas, brakes and tires (my guess is the Subi). Also with twice the milage, the Subi will be up for 'major' service sooner than the Hyundai, like shocks or the like.

As it sits, the Hyundai with half the milage and for over $1000 less is a better choice. I'm not up on the used car prices, but check kbb.com to see what they're really worth.

You'll always pay more from a dealer than from a private owner, but unless they give you a warranty, you're paying extra for nothing. Yes, a dealer doesn't want to sell a piece of crap based on their reputation, but without a warranty they have no obligation to do anything for you if the car turns into a shitbox. At the same time, most private sellers are just selling a car, and not running a used car scam out of their homes.

Here's what I did on the last two used cars I bought. I drive 30k or 40k miles per year for work, so I look for mid-like used cars with around 50k miles that have a good reputation for lasting a long time. I ended up buying Hondas, and the one I sold with 215k, and the one I have now is up to 150k, and running strong.

Anyway, look for a used car from a private party. Go see the car and talk to the owner. Look at the house and size up the owner and listen to their story. See if it all makes sense, and if they look like the sort of person who could take care of a car (aka pay for regular maintenance). Of course, drive the car on the street and the freeway and make sure it's 'smooth'. No shakes, shimmys or vibrations under gas, brake or while coasting.

Provided it passes all that, try to make a deal with the seller, and if you can agree on a price make the deal contingent upon a professional inspection. Find the nearest dealer for that brand. and make an appointment at the sellers convienence at your cost for a used can inspection. The dealer will probably charge $75 for the job, and you'll have experienced mechanics from that brand checking the car. If it passes, buy the car. If there are problems, either renegotiate with the seller to account for them, or just pass on the deal and consider the $75 money well spent.

[Rahtingo41 0]

well unfortunately I have a week left to look because work, etc and its from a dealer and both have warranties my cousin is a mechanic so Im having him take a look but I always heard buying private wasnt such a great idea? I Checked kbb out before hand and it has a higher price than what they are going for at the dealership so I didnt know that its still considered over priced, thanks for any input also its very appreciated

[jackwallace 3]

Look on KBB as if you are selling the car. That will give you a more accurate value. If you are on good terms with your insurance agent ask how much you would get for the car if it were totaled.
Drive both. Some cars just don't fit.
Ask if they have maintenance records for the cars.
Take it to a mechanic and a body shop. The body guys can spot rust, and past damage.
If you can find out anything about the past owner. City or highway driver.
I have two cars with 200k and truck with 300k. They are mostly highway driven. My mothers 11 year old car has 40k and is in worse shape than mine, because it is just city mileage. Stop and go is murder on cars.

U only make 2 jumps: the first one for some weird reason and the last one that you lived through. The rest are just filler.
scr 316

[eeneR 1]

One thing to keep in mind, Subaru's have a reputation of going well over 200k easily. The require a timing belt be done every 105k, or else. In addition most end up needing head gaskets around 150ish. I just passed 100k, replaced timing belt and pully's and tensioners. I will need a head gasket in the next year. Outside of regular normal maintenance, brakes etc. this car has been freaking amazing.

I am not sure what the full life expectancy on the Hyundai is, but for both vehicles you want to know where they are with the important stuff, timing belts etc.

As mentioned check KBB, my 2007 Subaru Wagon is still worth over 9k in "fair" condition with over 100k on it.

Spend the $$ for a Carfax report if it is available for the cars worth the $$

She is not a "Dumb Blonde" - She is a "Light-Haired Detour Off The Information Superhighway."
eeneR
TF#72, FB#4130, Incauto

[airdvr 197]

Maybe you need to go here....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNnCetCSQvo&feature=related

This makes me laugh everytime I see it.

Please don't dent the planet.

Destinations by Roxanne

[wmw999 2,116]

Yeah, that's a great ad, and the actor does a good job with it too -- I'll bet he picks up some new jobs from that one.

The one problem is that I don't ever remember what the car brand is; from an advertising point of view, that's not so good Never mind -- it's not an ad for a car. D'oh

Wendy P.

There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown)

[DanG 1]

My wife's (formerly my) Subaru Forester has about 125k on it, and it runs fine. The maintenance someone mentioned above (105k scheduled) cost us over $2400. If the Subaru hasn't had that maintenance yet, walk away, or get them to drop the price accordingly.

- Dan G

[eeneR 1]

Quote

My wife's (formerly my) Subaru Forester has about 125k on it, and it runs fine. The maintenance someone mentioned above (105k scheduled) cost us over $2400. If the Subaru hasn't had that maintenance yet, walk away, or get them to drop the price accordingly.

Was $2400 for just timing belt etc, or was that with head gasket? if you paid $2400 for timing belt and it didn't actually go yet....then you got hosed. If it is replaced before it breaks the timing belt alone is $400 ish, if you do it right and have all the attached parts that can go as well it is about $1k....this makes all those parts good for another 105k.

If you got the Head gasket done as well, they yea $2400 ish is about right.

She is not a "Dumb Blonde" - She is a "Light-Haired Detour Off The Information Superhighway."
eeneR
TF#72, FB#4130, Incauto

[jumpsalot-2 2]

I did "both" head gaskets (yes there are two) on my Legacy 2.5 L. Had a machine shop re-surface the heads and adjust the valves (inserting the proper shim sizes)..very important. I did all the other labor except machine work. With new timing belt, water pump ( a must, as it is driven by the timing belt), and gasket kit.....$1400.....sold it 100 K miles later, running like a champ, at 250 K miles total. Body and frame and tranny were in great condition. I put it thru hell, living in mountainous (end of the dirt road) snow country.....

Life is short ... jump often.

[masterrig 1]

If, you find a vehicle you like at a dealer and it meets your 'standards', try dealing toward the end of the month. They are more willing to 'deal' and will cut their price because they want to show good sales for that month. I did that on a pick-up and saved about $2500.00!


Chuck

[DanG 1]

We had the timing belt and a bunch of other stuff done. I think they did the water pump, maybe the head gasket, some brake work, etc.

Either way, the price of a car with 118k miles should certainly take completed or uncompleted scheduled maintenance into account.

- Dan G

[eeneR 1]

Quote

I did "both" head gaskets (yes there are two) on my Legacy 2.5 L. Had a machine shop re-surface the heads and adjust the valves (inserting the proper shim sizes)..very important. I did all the other labor except machine work. With new timing belt, water pump ( a must, as it is driven by the timing belt), and gasket kit.....$1400.....sold it 100 K miles later, running like a champ, at 250 K miles total. Body and frame and tranny were in great condition. I put it thru hell, living in mountainous (end of the dirt road) snow country.....

Right on! Yea $2400 for that is worth every penny!! These things take a licking and just roll along like it is nothing! for $1k they replaced timing belt, all pully's and tensioners and the water pump. Basically everything that attached moving to the timing belt. Was worth the piece of mind. The same shop quoted me $1500 for gaskets and resurfacing, so yea basically the same thing :-) I may also need a new clutch when I do the gaskets, which they said they would do for parts if it was needed since they would have it torn down part way anyway. Yea my subi is stick!

She is not a "Dumb Blonde" - She is a "Light-Haired Detour Off The Information Superhighway."
eeneR
TF#72, FB#4130, Incauto

[eeneR 1]

Quote

We had the timing belt and a bunch of other stuff done. I think they did the water pump, maybe the head gasket, some brake work, etc.

Either way, the price of a car with 118k miles should certainly take completed or uncompleted scheduled maintenance into account.

YES! YES! YES. If it has not had the timing belt done it will HAVE to be done ASAP...and done right. If so, the car will just keep going and going and going

She is not a "Dumb Blonde" - She is a "Light-Haired Detour Off The Information Superhighway."
eeneR
TF#72, FB#4130, Incauto

[Born2Late 0]

"If so, the car will just keep going and going and going."

Dunno about that. My last two cars were Subis. The first was a Forester, made in Japan. That was probably the best made car I've ever owned. My only gripe was I wanted more pep. So, I traded it for an Impreza outback wagon. That one was made in the new plant in Lafayette, Indiana. It wasn't made nearly as well... I hated that car, & was happy to trade it in. It wasn't nearly as tight, & got awful mileage. Hard to believe it was the same company. I've since met a couple other people w/new Subis & problems.

Either way, 118K is a lot of mileage. Buy it from a stranger, & for that ridiculous price? Absolutely not. Pass on both of them.

[jsaxton 0]

What he said, for 8K and 100kmi you could get a BMW740iL in good condition.

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Forgot to mention the hyundai at first was making some odd sound went away after a little while and the subaru sounded great (actually sounded the best out of the last 2 months of test driving cars) maybe you can tell I really am trying to make excuses to get that subi

Neither! Both are way overpriced. $8000 for a used subaru with over 100,000 is just stupid

[Rahtingo41 0]

well all of the scheduled maintenance was done timing belt, head gaskets (got it in the carfax though I dont always trust it because they dont always report everything) my mechanic came and checked it out too,either way when I came back to try to deal with him for the subi someone came 2 hours before me and put a grand down, sucks...

Down the road I found a 2007, chevy cobalt sedan LS with 60,000 miles in excellent shape for $8000 I looked on KBB price was going for almost 10k so, if this seems overpriced I am totally lost

ended up getting that because 3 other employees I know have this car and its been great for them (comes with a usual 60 day warranty and also life time engine warranty as long as I bring in the oil change receipt every 3,000 miles)

Lol now all 3 of us have black 06-07 chevy cobalts and 2 of us bought it from the same dealer

Im happy with it , my mechanic is , hopefully its not shitty any of you guys have any experience with one?

(My friend has a WRX STI , hopefully one day looong down the road I will get that (getting my A is more important) , but for now I get to enjoy being in the passengers seat of it )