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Winznut

"Getting the canopy into the d-bag" question

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Salve,

I'm pretty new to skydiving and packing a canopy.
I got a used Spectre 190 and was wondering how to get it into the d-bag.

Using the search button, I found out that psycho-packing helps to get it into the bag but also slows down the opening.
As keeping in mind that the Spectre is already slow-opening I doesn't look like a good idea to me.

My problem is, that after laying the canopy on the ground and doing the s-folds, it is to wide to fit into the bag and unfolds itself when I try to "force" it into the corners of the d-bag.

I made it 2 times, but can't remember how... ;)
Anyone have a suggestion to make it a bit easyer?

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grab one of the packing donkeys at your dz and get them to show you how to do it...ask one of your instructros (note, if jumping is over and you give them a beer, they will probably be more than willing to show you)...or just watch someone else pack...and if all else fails, get some scissors and just cut off whatever parts of the canopy don't fit in the bag....


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Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!

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Just before making the s-folds make sure to wrap the centre panels of the tail tightly around the canopy - making a cigar shape - and then lay down on the canopy to get most of the air while tucking any excess underneath you.

The trick is to get the width of the 'cigar' just right, about the width of the closing flap on the D-bag. Have the bungies replaced and the bag inspected before taking your weight off and then be as quick as you can about making the S-folds because zero-P tends to re-inflate quickly. Also when S-folding the pack job keep a little pressure on it to stop it re-inflating and sliding around. Practice. Good luck.

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Using the search button, I found out that psycho-packing helps to get it into the bag but also slows down the opening.


I don't believe that psycho packing slows down openings. Over the course of almost 200 jumps on my old Spectre 170 I psycho packed it maybe 150 times and pro packed the rest. I noticed no significant difference in opening characteristics with either method.

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Just before making the s-folds make sure to wrap the centre panels of the tail tightly around the canopy - making a cigar shape - and then lay down on the canopy to get most of the air while tucking any excess underneath you.

The trick is to get the width of the 'cigar' just right, about the width of the closing flap on the D-bag. Have the bungies replaced and the bag inspected before taking your weight off and then be as quick as you can about making the S-folds because zero-P tends to re-inflate quickly. Also when S-folding the pack job keep a little pressure on it to stop it re-inflating and sliding around. Practice. Good luck.



Take into account that I am very new, but during my packing class I was taught to put the D-bag around the canopy, not the canopy in the D-bag.
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I've done so much, with so little, for so long
I'm now expected to do everything with nothing forever

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Anyone else try not only putting the d-bag around the packjob, but also to just do the first s-fold, then into the d-bag, then the second s-fold?

I would take pics, but don't have skydive gear anymore...
---------------
Peter
BASE - The Ultimate Victimless Crime

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Anyone else try not only putting the d-bag around the packjob, but also to just do the first s-fold, then into the d-bag, then the second s-fold?

I would take pics, but don't have skydive gear anymore...



That is what sid was talking about peterk

"
http://www.packingparachutes.com/...iques_tips/greed.htm
Sid"

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I somewhat disagree with the theory that psycho packing causes a "slower" opening. As the co-inventor of the method, and without question the skydiver with the most experience in the sport on the technique, the "slower" opening myth is based on the fact that the pack job is clean and orderly. Thus, compared to really crappy packing technique, openings can be slowed. But, a properly done standard pro pack and a properly done psycho pack will open without any discernible differences.

So, now to the point of your post, when done properly the psycho pack will ease the task of bagging your main considerably. Maybe you can come to PIA Symposium in January and attend my seminar/demonstation of the packing style.

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Take into account that I am very new, but during my packing class I was taught to put the D-bag around the canopy, not the canopy in the D-bag.



I agree. I didn't intend to infer otherwise in my post, but perhaps I'm not explaining myself very well. The original poster has trouble getting the packjob in the D-bag. Basically what I'm saying is to dress the packjob to the width of the closing flap on the bag, (thus ensuring that the canopy will fill all the space in the corners of the bag neatly), and to lay on the canopy to get as much air out as possible to reduce the pack volume after s-folding. The problem is not necessarily the type of packjob used but the neatness of it.

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First of all, Spectres open great when psycho-packed.

Take a second look at the "rolling" stage of psycho-packing. It is the most important trick of the whole method and can also be used when PRO-packing.

Another method is to stop trying to "bag" the canopy in one masterful step.
I prefer "bagging" the canopy in 3 separate steps.
Start by laying the canopy on the floor, dressing it to the same width the d-bag, then kneel on the canopy just above the orange label.
Slide the d-bag under the canopy and anchor it with your knees. Now your knees are clamping the canopy, to the d-bag, and to the floor.
Fold the canopy in half and press it against your knees.
Shove the middle of the canopy into the top of the d-bag.
Shove the top of the canopy into the d-bag.
Finally, grab the bottom of the canopy and shove it into the d-bag. Stow lines in the first rubber band.

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I learnt to flat pack Manta 280s before pro-packing (we have lots of S/L students at our UK DZ) and these are easy to bag. It's when I got my Sabre the problems started (slippy ZP) so I developed this method.

1: Make the 'sausage shape' as thin as posible
2: S fold it's length as quick as posible
3: Put bag over as much as you can
4: Stuff the 'spare bits anywhere there is a space
5: Stow the first bit on line in the first bungy
6: Repete 4 & 5 until all the mouth lock line stows are done
7: Repeat 4

Works for me. Funny thing is I don't get asked to pack Sabres for others, I wonder why.
I was going to learn the psycho-pack but as mine looks like a psycho has packed it I didn't bother.
I work on the assumption if it doesn't what to go in in the first place then it ain't going to stay in when it get a little taste of freedom on deployment.

Best advise I can give is to squash out as much air a possible, make it VERY narrow before the S folds, keep it under control with your knees and don't take too much time bagging it. It also helps (helps me anyhow) if the canopy is warm & packed on a carpet (helps stop material sliding about). If all else fails, CHANGE JOBS to one that pay a lot more then pay a packer to pack for you while you go off and jump your second kit.


Get out, Land on a green bit. If you get the pull somewhere in between it would help.

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1: Make the 'sausage shape' as thin as posible
and
....make it VERY narrow before the S folds....



The problem with doing this is that it then makes the D-bag fatter in the container, which make closing it harder, and when someone else packs it neater they end up with some slack in the closing loop. Dress it to the width of the flap on the bag-that way all available space is filled.

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The problem with doing this is that it then makes the D-bag fatter in the container



But not if the canopy is new & slippy as it will then spread under your knees as you kneel on it. With an older or less slippery canopy it may not spread then making it the width of the bag is correct way. I know a number of packers who start narrow with newer canopies.


Get out, Land on a green bit. If you get the pull somewhere in between it would help.

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Using the search button, I found out that psycho-packing helps to get it into the bag but also slows down the opening.


I don't believe that psycho packing slows down openings. Over the course of almost 200 jumps on my old Spectre 170 I psycho packed it maybe 150 times and pro packed the rest. I noticed no significant difference in opening characteristics with either method.



I would agree, having also psycho packed my old spectre 170 about 150 times, I cant say i noticed much difference in openings from when it was pro packed.
-----------------------------------------------------------
--+ There are 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't.. --+

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Thanks for all the hints!

I'm still waiting for my Cypres to be returned from it's 8-years check so I could finally jump one of my packjobs. ;P
It's getting better but I still have the problem, that the canopy spreads out to much while I'm kneeing on it and "getting the bag around it".
But I guess it's just practice... ;)

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