Perigee Pro Packing Tips

[dbagdrew 0]

I was hoping to get some thoughts from people with Perigee Pro's.

I have a new rig/canopy(Perigee Pro with a Blackjack 260), with less than 20 jumps on both. I have been having some issues with pin tension.

It has been fairly high, and I have noticed what seems to be a longer deployment from similar delays (compared to the velcro rig I started jumping with). I have concluded (very unscientifically I know) that this is due to a fairly high pin tension.

I talked to my mentor about it and he packed it with me changing the location of the folds, and that seemed to help quite a bit. I was able to get the tension to a reasonable level on my subsequent pack job, but I did this by placing material above the line on the label that says do not place material above this line (as well as changing the folds).

My question is, does anyone else break this 'no material above this line rule' and what are your thoughts on it?

I have e-mail Marty on this and am waiting for his response, but I would like to hear from others as well.

Any thoughts/ideas would be great.

I realize that it is a new rig and will likely take some time to get worn in. But at this point I would not consider doing anything resembling a 'low' freefall.

[blitzkrieg 0]

at first my pro was pretty tight, so i legthened the closing loops to a comfortable tension. for the last couple years it's been loose, with very low pin tension (which i've been meeting to shorten) and i've not had any trouble with low freefalls, or terminal jumps. although, i did have a pin pop on an A last summer...

the nice thing about the p pro, is that even if the loops are loose, the closing flap closes the same.

[gweeks 1]

I agree with everything blitzkrieg said. Also, picking the rig up and letting it drop while holding onto the shoulder straps helps seat the pack job down in the bottom of the container and seems to make it fit mo' better. Prime the pins for a little extra mental warm and fuzzy.

[wwarped 0]

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i legthened the closing loops to a comfortable tension.

I talked to Marty at BD. he seemed to expect jumpers to change the length of their closing loop. he said there were simply too many variables for "one" correct length.

DON'T PANIC
The lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.
sloppy habits -> sloppy jumps -> injury or worse

[stitch 0]

You would think that would be a "given" for any pin rig.

"No cookies for you"- GFD
"I don't think I like the sound of that" ~ MB65
Don't be a "Racer Hater"

[hookitt 0]

Here's a tip that may help a bit.

When you place the canopy into the container, leave a good 4 inches from the bottom of the tail pocket to the bottom wall of the rig. When the last s-fold is created, there will be more room available when the bottom is closed.

Create the next fold right at the *don't go above this line* line. Place your hand as wide as you can across that line. Pick the canopy straight up against your hand and then fold it back and press flat.

Dress the nose however you dress the nose.

Create the next fold right at the bottom of the rig in the same manner. Since the tail pocket is a few inches away from the corners, the s-fold will fit in easier.

Take care to keep the canopy nice and square in the container as it's being closed. Bend it into shape after it's all closed up.

Hope that helps

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[dbagdrew 0]

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Here's a tip that may help a bit.

When you place the canopy into the container, leave a good 4 inches from the bottom of the tail pocket to the bottom wall of the rig. When the last s-fold is created, there will be more room available when the bottom is closed.

This was one of the changes that I made after talking to my Mentor, it made a big difference, especially on the bottom pins' tension.

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Create the next fold right at the *don't go above this line* line. Place your hand as wide as you can across that line. Pick the canopy straight up against your hand and then fold it back and press flat.

I think I can picture this, but are you saying that you go above that line or not? And if you do is it a lot or a little?

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Take care to keep the canopy nice and square in the container as it's being closed. Bend it into shape after it's all closed up.

I did some of this too, even rolled around on it with the leg straps tight. Made a difference as well.


Thanks for your reply.

Education: that which reveals to the wise, and conceals from the stupid,
the vast limits of their knowledge. - Mark Twain

[pocbase 0]

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You would think that would be a "given" for any pin rig.

Thought so too.
You change it according to the jump.

The bums will never win Lebowski, the bums will never win!
Enfin j'ai trouvé:
Bieeeen

[base_rigger 0]

Like Tim said but I close the top grommets right after the first fold.

Then I dress the tail very much like I would do on a reserve, i.e. by making ears and stuffing them on the sides.

With this method you are able to generate neat corners that can be stuffed directly into the container's corners.

I saw Miles D. using the very same technique.

The fundamentals for the p-pro to look pretty and have the best pin tension are:

Don't place fabric above the line.

Make the pack wide and flat rather than narrow and thick.

Fill the corners well.

You know you have a problem when maggot is the voice of reason at the exit points

[dbagdrew 0]

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Like Tim said but I close the top grommets right after the first fold.

Then I dress the tail very much like I would do on a reserve, i.e. by making ears and stuffing them on the sides.

With this method you are able to generate neat corners that can be stuffed directly into the container's corners.

I saw Miles D. using the very same technique.

I have seen Miles and crew do this as well.

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The fundamentals for the p-pro to look pretty and have the best pin tension are:

Don't place fabric above the line.

This is what I am not sure about, I have found that placing fabric above that line gives me a neater looking pack job, as the material files out the top better, getting rid of a nasty looking crease.

Education: that which reveals to the wise, and conceals from the stupid,
the vast limits of their knowledge. - Mark Twain

[hookitt 0]

I don't intentionally put fabric above the line but inevitably, some will end up there after it's closed. Just keep it soft up there.

Think: flat precise folds (all folds, not just the s-folds). No crumpling or rolling.

When I close the container, the canopy is not disturbed much at all. It's merely compressed. The canopy is held in place and the flaps are pulled around it.

(Where’s a digital camera when I need it?)

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[dbagdrew 0]

This is from Martin Tilley of Asylum


I e-mailed Marty about this and got permission to post his answers. Here they are:

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Marty

I just had a quick question for you. I have been having a little trouble with high pin tension on my new Perigee pro.

(Martys Response)

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Completely understand. All rigs do have character, and when the rig is new, it will have a "breaking in period".
1) for the rig to loosen up and stretch out, and
2) for the user to become more familiar and develop technique.

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With the help of my mentor, I was able to get it lower, but still not to the point that I am happy. We tried a couple different ways/places for the folds.

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There are many suggestions to distribute bulk. Remember that the container is a wedge. This means that the majority of the bulk will be at the bottom of the container. The placard at the top of the container is a suggestion to the user to minimize the bulk at the top of the container. This will accomplish a couple of things-
a) better closure/alignment of the top of the container,
b)make the rig fit better--with the bulk not at the top of the container, then the rig will roll over the shoulders


--both of which will minimize pin tension.
I have heard of jumpers repositioning the T.P to change the bulk of the bottom. I personally have the TP at the bottom of the container and make the first fold just below the placard. At this point, be aware of the width. If too wide, then you will have mash, or fold the pack-job to fit the width. (I like to see the outside stitch line for the container as a guide to the width of the pack-job). This can create a wrinkle in the top flap, not a function issue , but not so easy on the eyes. As with all pack-jobs, the volume will stay the same, but the perceived/"manipulated" volume will dramatically effect the aesthetics and tension. Then with the second fold at the bottom of the container, I extend the fold past the bottom on the container(about 2-3 fingers width). This will insure that the bulk will remain at the bottom, and also provide for a uniform, firm platform for the extraction of a stowed PC. The packing tabs, bridle attachment and top of the upper surface cells should (in my pack-job) end up slightly higher than the center of the rig. Be sure to clear the bridle and that there is a unobstructed line of tension between the bridle and the canopy (no packing tabs or canopy material).
I close the top first, and that should be relatively simple, without too much squishing. This will secure the pack-job in the container, allowing the user to carefully place the canopy material in the bottom corners. Next will be closing the bottom flap, keeping in mind the width and pin tension.

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My question is about the patch sewn on the rig that says do not place material above this line. Is this for aesthetics? Or is there another reason for it? I seems like I could get better results if I placed more canopy up there.

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As mentioned, it is primarily for the reduction bulk at the top, which will make the rig fit the body better, reduce possible high pin tension for the top pin, and keep the rig looking smooth. To clarify, if the pack-job is excessively wide then the effort required to close the container will be more difficult.

Additional tips:

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Another thought
.....and this goes for all containers.......
Think of the shape of the container
Pack the parachute so the finished shape is the same as the container.
Then simply, wrap the container around the "shaped" pack-job.

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One more thought.....

is that as long as the basics of packing are in place, the details are truly individual
...meaning what works for one will not necessary work for another.
Questions to confirm.
Is the pack-job clean, neat, balanced, and configured for proposed intent?
Is the pin tension appropriate for proposed intent?
You will develop your unique style of closing, even if you are trying to replicate exactly someone's else technique.
Be open, flexible and willing to keep your procedure in an evolving state. I personally have a very similar pack-job to what I did last time, but it is a far way from the beginning attempts. I am constantly looking and picking up(or removing) subtle moves that keep the packing process always new, fresh, and in constant improvement.

Again hope this helps .......

_M

Education: that which reveals to the wise, and conceals from the stupid,
the vast limits of their knowledge. - Mark Twain

[stitch 0]

Heres a tip;

Sell it and buy a Huck-It.

"No cookies for you"- GFD
"I don't think I like the sound of that" ~ MB65
Don't be a "Racer Hater"