Thanks guys, I am not a Instructor Examiner, must have screwed up when I did my profile and have changed it now. Once again thanks for the answers! Kelly
Replacing the velcro on your bridle is not hard. You'll need E-thread (paragear.com or dj-associates.com), velcro (Paragear, again), and a size 18 needle in your home sewing machine. When you're done, take it to a friendly rigger for a sprinkling of pixie dust and holy water.
Your home machine may be able to do the velcro on the container, but you'll need to plan your stitch pattern, since the rig won't fit under the sewing machine arm. Some rigs may require opening up the corner seam -- definitely rigger work. If you decide to try it yourself, a few dabs of hot glue will help keep the velcro in place. Your friendly rigger should take a look at your completed work.
It's almost always easier to do container work when both parachutes are out, preferably disconnected.
Your profile says "Talon 2." I just looked at one, and the only velcro I found was the idiot patch, the little square on the bridle and its mate on the top flap of the main container. The purpose of the patch is to insure slack above the pin. If that velcro is worn, it's not a big deal -- if it were gone entirely and all you did was match up where the velcro used to be, your rig would still be as secure in freefall, and would open up as well when you throw out your pilot chute.
An applicant for a USPA I/E rating must hold an FAA senior or master rigger ticket.
I was unaware of that. I mistook what you were saying to be the equivalent of "since you're a CFI you have a commercial rating". Thanks for the clarification.
And one other thing...if you do it yourself and you have a kill-line PC, make sure you don't trap the kill-line with a stitch when you're sewing the new velcro on the bridle.
Busted????? 
We know............ 
