I took your advice, and e-mailed precision. It's been a week now and they have not replied.
So, if you, or anyone else has had any luck slowing one down, please give me a shout.
I've see two types of pocketed sliders,
- one made by sewing a strip of webbing between the front slider grommets.( reserve bridle type webbing )
- and the other was a ZP made pocket that was sewn to the front edge of the slider. ( it looked like it would fold back, and trail behind the slider as it moved downward )
I have had great success with adding pockets to sliders. The catch air and prevent air from entering the nosed of the canopy, slowing down initial inflation. I start with a large pocket, then trim it down until the customer is happy with their openings.
I think a strip of webbing sewn to the front of the slider would help, but not make a dramatic difference.
I suspect that the "strip of webbing" he was referring to is Weird Wayne's pattern of making slider pockets out of slider tape. Weird Wayne recommends sewing pockets to both the leading and trailing edges of the slider. My Sabre 170 was opening so hard that I sewed pockets to all four sides of my slider. That opened so slowly that hop-and-pops scared me! The long term solution was replacing the tired lines while retaining the leading and trailing edge pockets. I have sewn leading edge pockets on dozens of Sabre Mark Is, but still believe that the best solution is keeping the slider hard up against the bottom of the canopy.
