Aug 19, 2011, 6:34 PM
Post #1 of 13
Making Sigma closing loops
I would like to make my own Sigma closing loops. We have the correct line (1000lb spectra) and are using the same washers that were used on our old loops.
They are a simple unit but my question is;
How do you get the spectra through the tiny holes?
I was told by one rigger to use some hand tacking wax thread and pull it through that way but this seems impossible.
There is nowhere to buy these in our country (as far as I know) and the postage on them from the US is much more than the worth of the loop. we have the equiment to make them just this process is inhibiting us from doing so.
Aug 20, 2011, 3:07 PM
Post #3 of 13
Re: [freestyleleigh] Making Sigma closing loops
[In reply to]
Hiya, the easiest way in my opinion is to cut the spectre line with a hot knife.and when you cut the spectra piece cut it at an angle of about 60 degrees. That way you can thread it nice and easy through the holes in the washer. Rodger
So that demonstrates that 'build your own' instructions for loops exist, invalidating the argument that only the factory is able to produce such things. (...Whether or not any particular person can build any particular item to the required degree of accuracy.)
However, in this case the pdf instructions are for a military Sigma-style container, that uses a 'pulley closing loop' different from our civvy Sigmas ( 7.5" not 8.5").
Aug 25, 2011, 1:58 AM
Post #12 of 13
Re: [pchapman] Making Sigma closing loops
[In reply to]
I have done some reverse engineering. I have marked and disassembled old Sigma closing loop (civil). I have found that it is made in same fashion as in posted document. So you can use steps 1-10 from this document http://www.cpsworld.com/tech_pdfs/RWS/WI-038_Rev.0-Sigma1290.pdf
Regarding length my closing loop (before disassembly) was 22 cm long. This is 8,75 " = 8 3/4 long ! So it looks like this markings from step 1 ( 0–7” – 7 ¾” - 15”–15 ¾”–23” ) are correct. Because final loop size will be 8 3/4". This is the math : From marks 15 3/4" to mark 7" (15 3/4" - 7" = 8 3/4") equals 8 3/4".
At last picture lenght says 7 1/2" this can be true only if spectra schrinks because it wider after finger trapping !!!
Any way I'll check what are my markings on old disassembled loop and I'll let you know.
Stitch pattern looks like one from step 10 and I have tried to break picked thread with fish scale - it broke at 4 kilos. So, it is definitely thread is E type. Stitch pattern has to be done neatly and one has to pay attention to thread tension if you want to have smooth (less friction) loop at the end.
I don't know if silicon based lubricant (from cypres kit) needs to be applied or not ?
(This post was edited by jerolim on Aug 25, 2011, 2:06 AM)