May 14, 2001, 11:03 AM
Post #1 of 20
Does anyone know of a site that explains how to psycho pack? Are there any zp canopies out there that it is NOT recommended to pack this way, or can you do them all in this manner? "it's better to burn in than burn out"-
ya, that icarus website explains in detail with pictures.
I pyscho my safire, and get grief from the hardcore propackers. But that is tough. If I deploy right, and fly the harness, it is always acceptable smooth and on heading. I know icarus says don't pyscho the crossfire, and I think, the fx. Not sure on that. I think that has to do with how well or slow the canopy opens inherantly.
I have my opinions on sabres, in that if they are packed AND deployed properly, they are fine. I know people disagree. But whatever. It all depends on what you have.
I've tried it but still PRO pack for now at least. It is easier to get the #@$%**! thing in the bag psycho packing. One rigger warned me the top skin of your canopy is more likely to be damaged if you psycho pack.
ramon - I may have you give me some psycho-packing tips next time I'm at the DZ. I'm getting really frustrated propacking. I'm practcing a lot and still get about a 1/5 success rate getting the stupid thing bagged. The S-fold/bagging sequence hoses me every time.
Fugget it. I'm sick of wasting an hour & a half between jumps repacking.
Zennie, you may want to give this page a try...http://www.brentfinley.com/packing.htm. I bagged a brand new Zero-P using this method several times with a good looking consistant results. It is suprising how easy this pack job is. And given the folds you put in the canopy it looks as if it could reduce the possibility of a line-over as well. I have not jumped this pack job but I have a Triathlon which has similar openings as a Spectre and is fairly easy to pack even when new and get 600ft soft openings. Although I blow it sometimes also when "S" folding and bagging using the Pro-pack so don't be fustrated. I need to plan on packing and actually jump the pack job at the link above and see if there is a difference there. It don't seem like the extra folds would increase opening time much, if any. I don't want none of those 1,200 footers Ramon was speaking of with his Tri after Psycho packing it.
Zennie or anyone else for that matter...here is a tip that has helped me with my new gear.
Instead of doing the initial S-fold at the line attatchment point and then S-folding the rest of the material back over the initial S-fold and then getting the whole freakin canopy in the bad at once...I have been doing it in stages. I do the top part of the canopy. I S-fold that and then put it in the D-bag first so I still have, what would have been the initial S-fold still laying flat outside the D-bag. I then S-fold the part of the canopy where the lines attatch into the bag. You S-fold it and tuck it right in the middle of the bag. It makes it sooooo much easier to pack. I had been previously packing a 150 used sabre with 500 jumps on it into a 170 d-bag. I just got a 135 sabre with less than 200 jumps and I am putting it in a 135 d-bag. I was having so much trouble for a while until I started doing that. It goes in much cleaner and a hell of a lot easier. Did that make any sense by the way??? Its kinda hard to explain unless you are watching someone do it. It is even pretty weird to do it at first, because you are doing steps backwards and its not how you first learned how to do it. Anyways, give it a try and let me know if it works for you.
I've just got myself an elliptical 140 and like everyone else has been saying - it is a b*tch to pack!
What I want to know is how people do their psycho pack? I've looked at the precision web site and they pull their bridle attachment out and then roll the whole canopy into the bag. On the icarus web site they do the same with a Safire!
Does anyone out there do this rolling thing - I have seen a Psycho pack done but the canopy was folded into the bag.
My new canopy is a Springo 140 so if anyone Psycho packs that - help!!
I have not noticed any problems with the Psycho Pack EXCEPT with air-locked canopies. I do not recommend you try this pack job on canopies like the Vengence or Jedi. It seems to interfer with proper inflation and can cause violent spins!!!! The Psycho Pack has given me the most consistent predictable openings on other chutes.
Skydiving is not a static excercise with discrete predictability...
Slut - I'll give your technique a try. It's the S-folds that are killing me. No matter what I do, and I tried a lot of different things last night with 0 success, the first fold either shoots out underneath or squirts out sideways the minute I start folding. Light knee pressure, knee bracing the pack job, Wolmari method, Brent Finley's method, none of them worked. God it was frustrating.
I sat there looking at the thing just trying to think up something, anything, that'll work. I tried hybrids of all the methods, no dice.
Hell I can't even get a psycho pack inthe bag 'cuz it's too damn wide. And that's folding each side completely over to the other side.
Yeah, I think this will help you out a lot...it did me, I felt like such a jackass...I had about 100 quick and clean pack jobs under my belt and then I couldnt even get 1/4 off the canopy in the bag. I got a new rig and everybody was watching me pack this thing while they were checking it out...It was actually quite embarassing until I found this new way...One of my buddies/packers showed it to me. It is a hell of a lot easier...you do it in stages, so instead of cramming the whole thing in...you just do the harder half first and then the rest is a piece of cake. I was so pissed that I got this new rig and that I was going to have so much trouble packing it. It will come to you. Practice. Practice. Practice.
I use what Skyslut suggested, combined with Brent's way of doing the folding and it works great for me. Luckily, my Hornet isn't slippery like those PD canopies, but I am right at the maximum size canopy for my container.
Zennie, as your making your "S" folds are you grabbing the material that is against the ground to hold it together? You might try to use your knees to hold the canopy to the floor and place your hands under the canopy to hold it together at the bottom to try to prevent it from squishing out at the folds. For myself I noticed the majority of the "squishing" that took place was the first "S" fold near the lines. I would end up with the canopy really wide at the line end and a more "bag with" fold at the bridle attach point. This not only made it more difficult to stuff, but also prevented the bag from being completely filled in the top corners of the bag. Remember to keep positive pressure on the canopy, but not so much as to squish it out. Try this along with S folding and bagging the bridle attachment end first and see what you can make of it.
My dad use to psycho a Springo 120, and I usually psycho my Safire 149. And Both with GREAT, consistent results! Expecially for the Springo, that is equipped with the first kind of slider PdeF equipped it with (i.e. the tiniest I've ever seen).
There's only one thing I STRONGLY recommend: have a rigger make you a bridle extension! Without it you're at risk of:
Burn the top skin of your canopy
Induce a severe line twist during deployment as, if the bridle begins pulling on the canopy-bridle connection ring BEFORE the canopy is completely out its bag, all the rolls given to the canopy while packing will be transferred to the lines.
In my opinion (but that's only my own, PERSONAL opinion) this is what gives a bad name to Psycho-packing: a lot of people do it without having a proper bridle extesion installed, that makes a lot more likely a line twist mal. I think that "pulling the ring out of the roll" isn't enough. But, again, this is only my opinion and I think this is a great packing method for "nervous opening" canopies if properly executed.