Jan 16, 2005, 10:11 AM
Post #1 of 17
I know that we have talked about this subject over and over agian but I am still haveing a little trouble with the camera. I use a Zenitar Fisheye lens for shooting. Heres the problem the settings you guys are giving on the settings thread are not working with my 300D. The lens I use has a dial that darkens the lens or lighten the lens. Basicly a build in light filter. I usually set the camera to TV and use 320 or 500 and set the ISO to 200.I also have the white balance set to the little sunny item. But in order to have the pictures come out without having it really bright I have to use the Dial on the lens and darken it. Then as the sunsets throughout the day i have to keep truning the dial on the lens to lighten it up, testing to see if it will shoot decent pictures before getting on the plane to jump. At the time of the day the last jump when the sun is just about to set under the horizon the lens is set as far as it will go to lighten the pictures, the pictures still are really dark. So then i have to mess with the settings on the camera. Making more work for me. I have read the canon manual but I still need a little work. Let me know if anyone can "HELP ME".
(This post was edited by aerialcameraman on Jan 16, 2005, 10:12 AM)
Hmm don't mean to be rude but.... How about reading up on how a camera works?? If you want to use a manual lens like the zenitar, you really need to know how f-stops etc work! Build-in light filter? That's the diaphragm.
Working with M42 lenses acknowledgement of the focusing with green light is not made. The aperture is set «0.0». Expo-modes:
1. P (program) – identical to Av mode; 2. Tv (flash priority) – doesn’t work; 3. Av (diaphragm priority) – works as usual; 4. M (manual) – aperture and flash are changed. Inaccuracy of exposure defining is indicated by expo-correction.
Not trying to sound made but I just would like a little help from some other that had been jumping and working with cameras for a long time. I don't need a bunch of crap about I should know this, I should know that. Not everybody knows everythnig and needs a little help every now and then. I was doing fine on a 35mm camera but those setting are not working with this camera i have know. All i want is some help on maybe if anybody else has had this problem and maybe could help. I know some of the people on this forum helps people but some just hackle on people who ask questions. What lenses are you using and what settings are you using? Just help don't hackle me.
THanks sorry if i have affended anybody!!!!!!
(This post was edited by aerialcameraman on Jan 16, 2005, 12:07 PM)
Read the bit at the bottom: you need to use Av mode not Tv.
It's nothing to do with the camera, only with the lens. Using the same settings as somebody using autofocus lenses (which most people use) just won't work. You need to figure out the correct settings for this lens, I know there are other people here that are jumping 16mm zenitars maybe they can chime in.
But, this is basic stuff. If you want to know WHY something works, I suggest you read up on basic photography is all. You may have to change the settings during the day, and if you know what you're doing it'll save you a lot of trouble and maybe bad shots.
If you want an easier lens, get the 14 or 15 mm autofocus lens which will figure out the f/stop by itself so you can simply shoot at Tv set at 1/400 (or whatever) like you're used to.
BTW the whitebalance (sunny pic) has nothing to do with the amount of light, only the color.
I just got out my camera and was using the the AV mode but it seems that the shutter fires faster in TV the in the AV mode. If this is the case then I will get less amount of pictures per jump. Am i right and if thats the case you will get a blurr in the picture then. Let me know if I am doing this wrong or what.
(This post was edited by aerialcameraman on Jan 16, 2005, 12:34 PM)
You set shutterspeed with Tv mode, the camera then comes up with the appropiate aperture.
In Av mode the camera comes up with the appropiate shutter speed for the aperture you set.
So if you want another shutter speed in Av you need to change the aperture. You need to come up with about shutter speed 1/400 (depending on who you ask and depending on light conditions) and the aperture will help determine which part of the picture will be in focus. For jumping you'd like (or I would anyway, but I haven't done too many jumps with a still camera yet) about f/11-f/16, with a shutter speed of 1/320 - 1/500.
You can also go entirely manual of course but I wouldn't...
Don't have a 300D manual anymore but stuff about the different modes and how they work should be in there.
I just got out my camera and was using the the AV mode but it seems that the shutter fires faster in TV the in the AV mode. If this is the case then I will get less amount of pictures per jump.
Huh? No you won't. The camera will still do 3 pics/second max for 4 secs max (off the top of my head here) and then slow down. Unless you're talking bulb pics or something with very very long shutter speeds.
Zoom lens's are always going to be heavier and unless you are wanting to shell out some $ they tend to be slower. 19-35 should be a decent play around the ground, get family shots, but with the 1.6X on the 300D thats about a 30 mm lens. You are going to have to step back a bit to avoid over filling your framing. The issue is if you do that how is the video going to look? Step too far back to make the stills look good and the video might be way too small.
Its best to match your stills to the video or do slightly wider so you can crop the picture.
Photography is not cheap. I'm putting together a stils package for myself right now and between glass and body I'm looking at well into $2200. That will get me a freefall lens and a ground zoom lens of up to 300mm. If you are not willing to spend the $ to get the right tools don't expect the best results.
I've got to agree with Phree... and don't take this the wrong way. Spending the $ to get one good lens from the canon or sigma will probably eliminate a lot if not all the hastle you are going through now. It may even keep you from replacing the lens with another cheapo, which will add up quickly. check out the used/new sections on: http://www.bhphotovideo.com or http://www.keh.com matt
19-35 should be a decent play around the ground, get family shots, but with the 1.6X on the 300D thats about a 30 mm lens. You are going to have to step back a bit to avoid over filling your framing. The issue is if you do that how is the video going to look? Step too far back to make the stills look good and the video might be way too small.
The newer Sony PC cameras seem to have a tighter field of view than the older ones. My PC105 with a Kenko .5 matches closely to a 24mm lens on my 300D.
I have found where i cn get this Opteka 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 III MC AF Wide Angle Lens. Will this be wide enough or would it not be wide enough for jumping. I can't find a 14 or 15 for a decent price.
Ryan, You get what you pay for. If you have bargain equipment and no knowledge of how to use it, it will be sheer luck to get any decent results. You can't rely on luck in photography. Come to Perris and I will teach you how to use your camera and lens, no charge. Until you understand the basics of the settings and what they do, you will just be guessing. And as you only get one guess per jump, it will cost you far more than if you just invest in a good lens. Being a photographer isn't cheap. I haven't added up all my camera gear, but a certain very well know skydiving photographer recently sent me a message just in the interest of another similar conversation, saying he added up his cameraflying costs, not rigs or computers, just specific cameraflying equipment, and it was $18,000+... Welcome to camera flying, this is why we have to charge for video and stills, even our friends.
Before you spend any more money, I'd start by reading the manual for the stuff you already have. Every question you've asked is answered in the Canon manual. If you're not having any luck there, then a visit to the bookstore would be a wise second move - there's tons of good books on how to use DSLR's.
A couple of my friends use the Zenitar too, it's a really nice lens but you lose the automatic features that your Digital Rebel (or 300D) offers.
Here's what you want to do:
Set your camera to the following settings: Manual ISO 100 Shutterspeed at 500 Set the dial for the aperture on the lens on F8
This is the "general" setting, now you need to fine tune it for the conditions of the moment, so you might need to slow down the shutterspeed to 400 cause there is not enough light, or change to a larger aperture because there is not enough light.
The lens you are using is a fully manual lens, the camera does not control the aperture, you do. I don't know about letting the camera pick the shutterspeed, since I don't own that lens myself I haven't messed around with that much.
I have the Peleng 8mm myself, which is a fully manual lens and I am still experimenting with it.
The reason you were able to do all this on your 35mm camera was probably because you had an automatic lens with that camera, in that case the settings you wanted to use did work...
What Iwan said.. Matthias and I both jump the Zenitar 16mm EF2.8 fully manual lens. I set it at between 5.6 and 8 on the ef stop and infinity on the focus. I shoot at fully automatic in the hangar and on manual outside. I adjust the shutter speed to 500 on nice sunny days and slow it a bit as it gets darker.. My pics turn out fine.