Forums: Skydiving: Gear and Rigging:
Replacing Frayed Brake Lines

 


packermatt7

May 20, 2013, 9:28 AM
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Replacing Frayed Brake Lines Can't Post

Hey all,

My brake lines are getting pretty fuzzy near the toggles. I was wondering... should I buy new brake lines? Or can just the bottom part be replaced/fixed?

How much would it cost? Thanks!

-Matt


theonlyski  (D License)

May 20, 2013, 9:49 AM
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Re: [packermatt7] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

packermatt7 wrote:
Or can just the bottom part be replaced/fixed?

How much would it cost? Thanks!

-Matt

I'm a frayed knot. LaughLaugh

Tongue

Yes, fairly cheap. Less than $40 most the time.


(This post was edited by theonlyski on May 20, 2013, 10:08 AM)


ChrisD  (No License)

May 20, 2013, 10:07 AM
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Re: [theonlyski] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

theonlyski wrote:
packermatt7 wrote:
Or can just the bottom part be replaced/fixed?

How much would it cost? Thanks!

-Matt

Yes, fairly cheap. Less than $40 most the time.

Smile

Excellent response, I just want to add to dilegently check the cats eye area as well for wear, ...

Some lower lines can be user replaced, just a loop thru and then a finger trap to the toggle end, thus the upper sewn loop never gets the same scrutiny if this is a home job.
C


theonlyski  (D License)

May 20, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Re: [ChrisD] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

ChrisD wrote:
theonlyski wrote:
packermatt7 wrote:
Or can just the bottom part be replaced/fixed?

How much would it cost? Thanks!

-Matt

Yes, fairly cheap. Less than $40 most the time.

Smile

Excellent response, I just want to add to dilegently check the cats eye area as well for wear, ...

Some lower lines can be user replaced, just a loop thru and then a finger trap to the toggle end, thus the upper sewn loop never gets the same scrutiny if this is a home job.
C

It sounds like you're talking about a larks head knot on the cat's eye... I wouldn't suggest this. It adds bulk and could potentially cause the line to not pass as freely thru the guide ring.

A proper replacement IMO should have a fingertrap on both ends and the only larks head knot on the toggle.


(This post was edited by theonlyski on May 20, 2013, 10:42 AM)


ChrisD  (No License)

May 20, 2013, 1:56 PM
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Re: [theonlyski] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

Smile

Ya what he said,...

I was in a hurry,... thanks

C


davelepka  (D 21448)

May 20, 2013, 2:06 PM
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Re: [packermatt7] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

 
It depends on what kind of lines you have. Some brake lines are one piece, with a 'cats eye' fingertrapped in for the brake setting. Those type would need to be replaced from the toggle to the cascade.

A two piece brake line consists of one line from the cascade down to the brake setting, where there is a loop at the bottom that is the brake setting. The lower line is fingertrapped around the bottom of the that loop and goes down to the toggle. The lower brake line can easily be replaced on it's own if the upper is in good shape and in-trim.

The other issue is why your lowers are frayed. If you have exposed Velcro on your risers, that's probably the cause, and you either need to upgrade to velcroless risers (a very good idea) or at the very least, refine the way you stow and handle your brake lines so as to avoid contact with the exposed Velcro.


irishrigger  (D 297)

May 21, 2013, 3:12 AM
Post #7 of 8 (739 views)
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Re: [davelepka] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

another tip, if you have no velcro on your riser, also check the guide ring for any damage or rust, i have seen that on a few occasion,especially on older risers that did not have Stainless steel hardware.


Rodger


theonlyski  (D License)

May 21, 2013, 8:04 AM
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Re: [davelepka] Replacing Frayed Brake Lines [In reply to] Can't Post

There could also be a couple other reasons the lines are getting damaged. In my case, it was a sharp hot knifed end of the binding tape they used for the excess stows and the fact that the grommet would jam the line very tightly against the risers when I pulled it behind my head.

The fix for both of them was to re-work the risers which moved the stow loops to the space between the toggle and the riser. No issue with this configuration.



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