*mods may want to branch this this discussion to general, but it's a valuable one.
~ I think that highlights the need to be completely familiar with your gear and commit to training your muscle memory for fast & proper utilization.
First instinct for many is to grab & 'panic' pull the handle, when/if it doesn't activate as expected the dreaded 'oh shit' confusion begins.
Some take a heartbeat to figure out what's happening, some pull & jerk like mad - hopefully eventually working it free.
Back in the dark ages, most all rigs came with a reserve ripcord & a larger more solid 'pud' with minimal Velcro on the release. Some rigs didn't use Velcro at all but instead had a spring steel 'tabs' that held the pud in a pocket, others had ripcord handles on both.
The handles were easy to use but with the popularity of door jam exits for big-ways, CReW wraps and subsequently FF - handles were occasionally getting activated inadvertently.
'Low profile' became the norm...smaller, flatter and a bit more positively secured. That did away with a lot of the floating handles & accidental pulls, but created a situation in which one must be well versed in how to correctly pull them.
Where a hard yank use to work, it now necessitated the 'peel & pull' procedure taught but probably not practiced enough.
I think it's important for newer jumpers to look at & understand how their handles are attached. How peeling the hook & loop from the bottom to the top quickly & easily frees up the handle. And that although the cable channels run downward, the handles don't have to be pulled with a strictly downward motion.
A newer jumper with a B license I was kind of mentoring not long ago was under the impression that releasing the main was a multi-step operation...
...Look at the handle, peel the Velcro with an in-board push & peel, then when the handle is free pull it 'straight down' to release.
I demonstrated a quicker one fluid motion way - grab the handle, angle the wrist back peeling it off & punch it out hard.
Once he understood the how's & why's, practiced it for a while...he was a lot more comfortable & confident regarding the cut-away procedure.
I know this is basic stuff for the old hands but something the n00bs might want to take a look at and file away in their toolbox.
never been shown exactly how much force is required to actually pull that red handle.
The force required to pull "The Red Handle" is variable depending upon the loading and further dependant to the large vs. small 3-Ring. The mechanical advantage of the small 3-ring set is 30 to 1 and the large 3 ring is 80 to 1. This advantage is realized at the loop, not at the red handle. The effort to pull the red handle and thus the cable from the loop is about 1 to 1 when the loop load is under 10 pounds. When the load exceeds 10 pounds the relationship changes to where at 20 pounds it takes about 40 pounds to pull it. On a graph this is dramatic.
Lubrication of the cable is paramount. The Yellow cable is Nylon coated and must be lubricated every 30 days or you will not be able to pull it. The Red coating found on some rigs is Teflon and never needs lubrication.
PhreeZone (D License)
Jan 29, 2013, 10:01 AM
Post #55 of 65
The Yellow cable is Nylon coated and must be lubricated every 30 days or you will not be able to pull it.
"Will not be able to pull it" is a little bit of an exaggeration I think. I know of lots of cutaways on sport (mini rings usually) and tandem gear that occur yearly where the owners do not oil the cables except at their repacks and yet they are able to pull the handles with little effort. In multiple foreign counties with year long repack cycles that have cutaways that occur deep into the repack cycle without lubrication occurring in between repacks. It is advised to regularly lubricate the cables but saying if you don't you will not be able to cutaway is not correct.
"Will not be able to pull it" is a little bit of an exaggeration I think.
I am astounded that a moderator would poo pa a reccomendation from a manufacturer. Especially one dealing with such a signifficant safety measure.
I have been there. I have had a no-cutaway because of a non lubricated cable. I have tested the absorbition rate of the cable. Nylon is hydroscopic and as such oil dries out within 30 days. Many people get away without intentionally lubricating the cable. This occurs because they wipe the thick black goop off of the cable from time to time. This action effectively lubricates the cable because that black goop is the residue from the cutting oil used in the housing manufacturing process.
Keep the cable lubricated! It is better to be safe than stupid. If the cable feels and squeeks like your hair after a shampoo, when you pull it between your fingers it is too dry, oil it.
>I am astounded that a moderator would poo pa a reccomendation from a manufacturer.
No worries about a recommendation; keeping your cables clean and lubricated is indeed an excellent idea. However it is not true that "you will not be able to pull it" so that clarification is in order.